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    997S Engine Breakin Procedure

    My apologies in advance as I know this subject has probably been brought up a hundred times. I have tried to use the "Search" function and I'm just not finding the answer.
    My Buddy tells me he plans to run his 997S Coupe at high RPM levels even during the break in period. His reasoning is that the engine was "run at redline for thirty minutes before it was installed in the car." Aparently ,some self promoted expert is giving him this advice. My experience over 30 years of driving is to follow the Factory Break in procedures. Have I been missing something the last several years? Are the 3.8 engines ready to run hot right out of the box? His car is due in a couple days, thanks for any feedback.

    Re: 997S Engine Breakin Procedure

    i was told to drive it like you stole it from the porsche mechanics. they said the engines are dynoed and ready to go. i personally went kind of easy for 2k them spanked it.

    Re: 997S Engine Breakin Procedure

    900 miles babied it, never went above 5000 rpms.

    after that, all's good as long as I don't go over the red. red is bad.

    Re: 997S Engine Breakin Procedure

    Quote:
    917driver said:
    My apologies in advance as I know this subject has probably been brought up a hundred times. I have tried to use the "Search" function and I'm just not finding the answer.
    My Buddy tells me he plans to run his 997S Coupe at high RPM levels even during the break in period. His reasoning is that the engine was "run at redline for thirty minutes before it was installed in the car." Aparently ,some self promoted expert is giving him this advice. My experience over 30 years of driving is to follow the Factory Break in procedures. Have I been missing something the last several years? Are the 3.8 engines ready to run hot right out of the box? His car is due in a couple days, thanks for any feedback.



    I may not be in the majority, but I'd do as the manual says. I did and, I believe, that mine is very strong; although that is obviously subjective.
    Good (driving) warm-up, vary the rpm's, don't lug the engine and no full throttle. After briefly loading the engine, allow the engine to cool by decelerating (just let off the gas pedal); this also allows more oil to be drawn into the cylinders. No excessive idling, no hot temps. and minimal cold start ups, e.g. no cold starts just to let your friends hear her pur. Good luck & congrats., hope this isn't too anal.
    P.S. After the break-in my oil consumption dropped significantly.

    Re: 997S Engine Breakin Procedure

    weird, my C2S never drank a drop of oil. 3700 miles now. Checked it when it's cold, checked it when it's hot, doesn't matter. I think my oil level sensor may be broken, oh noes.

    Re: 997S Engine Breakin Procedure

    Quote:
    Kevin034 said:
    weird, my C2S never drank a drop of oil. 3700 miles now. Checked it when it's cold, checked it when it's hot, doesn't matter. I think my oil level sensor may be broken, oh noes.



    Mine still does, just not very much.

    Re: 997S Engine Breakin Procedure

    Do what I did.

    0-1000 miles keep it under 4200 as recommended.

    1000-1500 give yourself up to 5200 rpm.

    1500-2000 don't be afraid to hit 6200 occasionally.

    Youy'll be amazed how easy this is to do.

    Keeping it under 4200 for 2000 miles is frickin' self-torture.

    Re: 997S Engine Breakin Procedure

    Quote:
    MMD said:
    Keeping it under 4200 for 2000 miles is frickin' self-torture.



    rofl

    Re: 997S Engine Breakin Procedure

    I would definitely stick to the manual. You don't want the dealership to deny warrantee coverage on the engine, on grounds that you didn't respect the break-in period.

    It's slimy, but that exactly the kind of cop-out that you can expect from many car dealers...

    Re: 997S Engine Breakin Procedure

    Quote:
    The Groom said:
    I would definitely stick to the manual. You don't want the dealership to deny warrantee coverage on the engine, on grounds that you didn't respect the break-in period.

    It's slimy, but that exactly the kind of cop-out that you can expect from many car dealers...



    That would never happen.... Besides, whadaya think they do with the demo models?? Those cars get beaten hard right out of the box, BY THE DEALERS.. I remember my first test drive, the car had 48 miles on it, and the sales manager and me went out and absolutely gave it hell, redline shifts at every opportunity... That demo car got sold to a local contractor, and was in for it's 2nd service under warranty last time I was at my dealer... no problems, other than the owner takes crappy care of it, really dirty...

    The manual is the factory's general "break-in-for-dummies" routine, keeping it simple and briefly-worded and overkill-term so that hopefully ON AVERAGE, real-life, they keep abject abuse to a minimum to protect their warranty liability. It's not something you need to follow as gospel (unless you're not terribly understanding of things mechanical, and fear the unknown..), as the wording and mileage and procedure seems to differ in the manuals from country to country, language to language. In other words, guys in suits in varying parts of the world in charge of different vast "territories" are affecting what the break-in procedure is for their territory. As I understand it, some Porsche manuals in certain areas of the world don't even SPECIFY an rpm limit for break-in...

    Just be smart. Warm her up well, vary rpms early-on, and keep it reasonable for the first thou'. A blip into the high-side of the tach here or there isn't going to spell doom for your engine, just don't make it an every-stoplight routine. Realize that actual physical break-in of your engine internals happens on a sharply declining curve, meaning that 80% of the physical wear and seating occurs in the first 10-20% of your specified "period". It's not a flat line. And it's certainly not a scenario where at 1,900 miles your engine is "not" broken in, and at 2,100 miles it magically "is". It's just easier and more practical for Porsche to tell you 2,000 miles at blah-blah rpm, rather than try to instruct all their customers, many of which probably don't know a rod bearing from a fishing rod, on metallurgy and heat cycles.

    Re: 997S Engine Breakin Procedure

    I did 4500 rpm in the 1st 1000 miles and now at 1200 miles I am reving up it close to the red for a second or two and shift quickly. I have to admit though if I get a race I will go fo it

    Re: 997S Engine Breakin Procedure

    Quote:
    69bossnine said:


    That would never happen.... Besides, whadaya think they do with the demo models?? Those cars get beaten hard right out of the box, BY THE DEALERS.. I remember my first test drive, the car had 48 miles on it, and the sales manager and me went out and absolutely gave it hell, redline shifts at every opportunity... That demo car got sold to a local contractor, and was in for it's 2nd service under warranty last time I was at my dealer... no problems, other than the owner takes crappy care of it, really dirty...

    The manual is the factory's general "break-in-for-dummies" routine, keeping it simple and briefly-worded and overkill-term so that hopefully ON AVERAGE, real-life, they keep abject abuse to a minimum to protect their warranty liability. It's not something you need to follow as gospel (unless you're not terribly understanding of things mechanical, and fear the unknown..), as the wording and mileage and procedure seems to differ in the manuals from country to country, language to language. In other words, guys in suits in varying parts of the world in charge of different vast "territories" are affecting what the break-in procedure is for their territory. As I understand it, some Porsche manuals in certain areas of the world don't even SPECIFY an rpm limit for break-in...

    Just be smart. Warm her up well, vary rpms early-on, and keep it reasonable for the first thou'. A blip into the high-side of the tach here or there isn't going to spell doom for your engine, just don't make it an every-stoplight routine. Realize that actual physical break-in of your engine internals happens on a sharply declining curve, meaning that 80% of the physical wear and seating occurs in the first 10-20% of your specified "period". It's not a flat line. And it's certainly not a scenario where at 1,900 miles your engine is "not" broken in, and at 2,100 miles it magically "is". It's just easier and more practical for Porsche to tell you 2,000 miles at blah-blah rpm, rather than try to instruct all their customers, many of which probably don't know a rod bearing from a fishing rod, on metallurgy and heat cycles.




    Beautiful..., just beautiful..., should go in the "message museum."

    Re: 997S Engine Breakin Procedure

    im waiting for 1999porsche911, or whatever his name is, to chime in and say how his method for everything is better and how we all do everything incorectly. lol

    Re: 997S Engine Breakin Procedure

    Quote:
    MMD said:

    Beautiful..., just beautiful..., should go in the "message museum."



    Or as the current McDonalds slogan would said: I'm lovin' it!

    Re: 997S Engine Breakin Procedure

    The manuals break in procedures are NOT for the engine. The engine has already been broken in at factory. If you are following the procedures you are holding yourself back for no reason.

    Putzing around at 3500 rpms will do more damage to the motor. What you should be doing during "break in" is working the car through ALL the gears at ALL the rpms ranges - yes even redline, though only when engine is completely warmed up. The motor should be taken up throughtout the entire rpm range and never held for long in anyone spot of the rpm range during break in.

    The break in procedure is a precautionary measure for all the moving parts of the vehicle (NOT THE MOTOR) to "seat" and "mate" smoothly and properly with each other. Most of the items in a car, ie wheels, brakes, transmissions, clutch, suspension, are manufactured in pods BEFORE they are bolted the car. It is these parts when mated/bolted to the vehicle that they (Porsche) are most concerned with. The motor itself is built in pods too BUT it is broken in BEFORE being bolted to the car so you really don;t need a break in procedure for the motor other than running the motor through all the rpm ranges and minimizing the amount of time the engine runs at one rpm range.

    Re: 997S Engine Breakin Procedure

    Quote:
    RR4 said:
    The manuals break in procedures are NOT for the engine. The engine has already been broken in at factory. If you are following the procedures you are holding yourself back for no reason.

    Putzing around at 3500 rpms will do more damage to the motor. What you should be doing during "break in" is working the car through ALL the gears at ALL the rpms ranges - yes even redline, though only when engine is completely warmed up. The motor should be taken up throughtout the entire rpm range and never held for long in anyone spot of the rpm range during break in.

    The break in procedure is a precautionary measure for all the moving parts of the vehicle (NOT THE MOTOR) to "seat" and "mate" smoothly and properly with each other. Most of the items in a car, ie wheels, brakes, transmissions, clutch, suspension, are manufactured in pods BEFORE they are bolted the car. It is these parts when mated/bolted to the vehicle that they (Porsche) are most concerned with. The motor itself is built in pods too BUT it is broken in BEFORE being bolted to the car so you really don;t need a break in procedure for the motor other than running the motor through all the rpm ranges and minimizing the amount of time the engine runs at one rpm range.



    Thanks RR4, this makes the most sense to me. What, if any, break-in procedures do you recommend for the non-motor components?

    Re: 997S Engine Breakin Procedure





    What, if any, break-in procedures do you recommend for the non-motor components?



    Tyres and brakes deffo need a few hundred miles on them before there are up to scratch.

    Re: 997S Engine Breakin Procedure

    My PS2s were squiggly as heck for the first 200 miles. Now they stick like glue.

    Also, if you don't use the brakes hard on occasion, they'll build up a dust ridge on the pads and they'll squeak. If you do get on them hard, make sure you motor for a few minutes to let them cool.

    ("Dust ridge" may not be a technical term. I apologize in advance...)

    -don

    Re: 997S Engine Breakin Procedure

    Quote:
    dstrimbu said:
    My PS2s were squiggly as heck for the first 200 miles. Now they stick like glue.

    Also, if you don't use the brakes hard on occasion, they'll build up a dust ridge on the pads and they'll squeak. If you do get on them hard, make sure you motor for a few minutes to let them cool.

    ("Dust ridge" may not be a technical term. I apologize in advance...)

    -don



    Not that I disagree with many of these posts, but can someone explain why other P-manuals reportedly don't have break-in procedures. Obviously 2k is not a majic number and the engine will break-in on a declining curve, but who's to say when most of the break-in occurs. The 2k number is representative of an average. As much as the break-in doesn't magically end at 2k, no-one really knows at what number your motor is broken-in, therefore, I would believe that 2k is a certainty; even if it is sometimes excessive; it is always safe.
    Not sure I believe that the manual is for the rest of the car, because those other parts break-in much, much quicker. That's why varying the rpm's is so important and the vehicle's speed is secondary.

    Re: 997S Engine Breakin Procedure

    I read that the first 20 miles are the most important in an engines break-in period, and you should drive it in those first twenty miles through the entire rev range without maintaining any RPM for too long. There was a link to this website a couple of weeks ago. It mentioned that the best place for breaking in an engine was a race track. There you could drive through the entire range of the engine, down shift to lower your speed so that you could exercise the engine and not worry about traffic.

     
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