Crown

Contrary to what my posts about my Turbo baby might have indicated ,  I don't spend hours detailing and washing my car. I don't like washing car. Dislike washing car intensely, as a matter of fact. But today, I did something related to car wash that's actually was enjoyable, because it worked like a miracle. Claying is rather old news, so this thread is for the car-wash noobs only please.

My Turbo's paint surface after 2 years has become gritty to the touch. Although I wash the car at least once a month and wax it every few months, the surface doesn't feel butter smooth anymore. I could feel tiny little grains of surface deposits, like little grains of sand, by simply running my hand over the paint.

Everyone I asked, and everywhere I looked, claying was the answer. I was hesitant at first, but now that I've finally done it, would recommend it without reservation. Claying is very simple, very easy to do, and the paint surface is baby butt smooth!

There are different products available, but this is the one I used, available readily at almost every car shop, well at least in the US it is:
Amazon - Mothers Gold Clay System

 I have some link and youtube stuff that I'll post later.

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Regards,
Can
997 Turbo + Bilstein Damptronic "Stage 2" ( Review ) + GIAC ECU Tune ( Fast as a torpedo & reversible to stock - Review ) + Cargraphic Exhaust ( Oh heavenly noise! )

yes and id recommend claying every 6-12 months, make sure you use plenty of lube with it as not to mark the paint, megs last touch is cheap and you can dilute 10:1 with water

I wouldnt say it was easy, as there are a lot of factors in it and you can easily damage soft paints like Nissan GTR's that has butter soft paint

• like paint softness / hardness

•  different grades of clay aggressive for overspray which can mark your paint and would need machine polishing after

• and soft for general tree sap etc 

Few tips for you when doing it

• Tear the bar into a few chunks and place in a clean bucket of warm water ( must be clean bucket) this helps to keep it soft, then when you have done a small section fold the clay in on its self and back into the bucket then just grab another bit you always then have a clean bit to work with

• light pressure

• Lots of lube dont let it dry out

•  you can also clay your wheels, glass  etc

• make sure you wash the car again after

OH AND IF YOU DROP A PIECE ON THE GROUND NEVER USE IT AGAIN JUST THOW IT AWAY

There are lots of clays available, not sure which are in the US,

Sonus do a nice clay

I use Bilt hamber at the moment

Megs professional is a very good clay

and use Megs last touch as a lube and lots of it

 I was converted about 10 years ago.  Problem for me is trying to do this in 40+ degree heat for half the year. Even topping up monthly with an LSP proves to be one chore too many for me in summer!

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Regards,
Can
997 Turbo + Bilstein Damptronic "Stage 2" ( Review ) + GIAC ECU Tune ( Fast as a torpedo & reversible to stock - Review ) + Cargraphic Exhaust ( Oh heavenly noise! )

I use mothers clay bar and when that is done - I wax the car.

If the weather is right, it is very relaxing. Ending with a glassy shine on a great car.

though dropping the clay bar on the ground half-way thru is a major pita

Liquid:

 I was converted about 10 years ago.  Problem for me is trying to do this in 40+ degree heat for half the year. Even topping up monthly with an LSP proves to be one chore too many for me in summer!

You see now why the Pro-Tech is so good!!!!  

Arshad:

Liquid:

 I was converted about 10 years ago.  Problem for me is trying to do this in 40+ degree heat for half the year. Even topping up monthly with an LSP proves to be one chore too many for me in summer!

You see now why the Pro-Tech is so good!!!!  

I somehow expected that you would chip in here giving promoting your snake oil

A few detailers around now offering a 3 step meguiars treatment, will given 'em a try during the summer months. I shall donate my Pro-Tech cleaning kit  to you the next time we meet

Hey did my clay thread just become a "Pro-Tech" shootout? :-) Who and what is Pro-Tech that is being called a snake oil, a traditional Chinese medicine (Wikipedia Snake Oil)? This "story" had better be good to make the distraction from my clay, AND claying, worth it.  LOL

Per google I found this, assume it's not the one? :
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
http://www.google.com/protech-hair-search..:-)
Pro Tech Hair & Nails
Category: Nail Salon
Westminster, CA 92683
(kidding)

BTW I *am* telling all you, again: my car's paint is baby-butt smooth after claying. It's a miracle. 
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Regards,
Can
997 Turbo + Bilstein Damptronic "Stage 2" ( Review ) + GIAC ECU Tune ( Fast as a torpedo & reversible to stock - Review ) + Cargraphic Exhaust ( Oh heavenly noise! )

cannga:

Hey did my clay thread just become a "Pro-Tech" shootout? :-) Who and what is Pro-Tech that is being called a snake oil, a traditional Chinese medicine (Wikipedia Snake Oil)? This "story" had better be good to make the distraction from my clay, AND claying, worth it.  LOL

Per google I found this, assume it's not the one? :
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
http://www.google.com/protech-hair-search..:-)
Pro Tech Hair & Nails
Category: Nail Salon
Westminster, CA 92683
(kidding)

BTW I *am* telling all you, again: my car's paint is baby-butt smooth after claying. It's a miracle. 
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Regards,
Can
997 Turbo + Bilstein Damptronic "Stage 2" ( Review ) + GIAC ECU Tune ( Fast as a torpedo & reversible to stock - Review ) + Cargraphic Exhaust ( Oh heavenly noise! )

I thought that "snake oil" is a generic term for bogus products.

Protech (search: Protech Monte-Carlo) is a dealer type protection that they stick on your car over here offering a warranty if you top up the treatment annually.  It costs a fortune for a treatment. Some people swear by it, I would rather clay, polish, and add a LSP. 

We can go back to your clay now

Ya i have the exact products you have posted. Though very pricy, they are great for home uss. At my detailing job, we won't necessarily use them as we have even better commercial products, but they're great at home!

John's tips are absolutely true and to be followed, otherwise you could do damage

 

• Tear the bar into a few chunks and place in a clean bucket of warm water ( must be clean bucket) this helps to keep it soft, then when you have done a small section fold the clay in on its self and back into the bucket then just grab another bit you always then have a clean bit to work with

• light pressure

• Lots of lube dont let it dry out

•  you can also clay your wheels, glass  etc

• make sure you wash the car again after

Great to see you have converted to the clay method. Doing it twice a year will suffice and a good wax right after will great your paint in ideal condition for a long time. I love washing/waxing but i also don't avoid getting dirty, meant to be driven afterall

Post some pics of before/after if you have

indeed shifting is ancient technology - so is a fuel burning engine..  I happen to like both :) 
_____________________________________________________________________
1984 BMW 323i 5spd 2.3L 141 hp (105 kW) More door. Black on black (parting out) 
1986 BMW 325e 5spd 2.7L 121 hp (172 lb·ft) Le Mans Blau on Tan leather.
1986 BMW 325is 5spd 2.5L 168 hp (164 lb-ft) White on Tan leather (parted out) 
2005 Ford Focus S, 5spd 2.0L 136 hp (120lb-ft) CD silver on grey (sold)
1986 Porsche 944, 5spd 2.5L 150 hp (168lb-ft) champagne gold on grown leather. (sold)

Questions for clay experts:
1. I assume you throw the clay bar away after each use? I only use up 1 of the two 80 gm clay bars above -- is that about right? Is the other, unused clay bar good for another year in storage?
2. Also, don't clay bar the clear bra? Pun intended, but question is for real, stay away from the clear bra?

Arshad and Liquid, my post was entirely tongue in cheek. You could talk Pro-Tech as much as your hearts desire. Hmm wonder if Pro-Tech clays the car before applying their concoction? If so, they're alright with me. LOL.
Oh yes of course snake oil  in western civilization usage indicates a fraudulent scheme. And if you ever have to drink the stuff, you would agree, immediately.
 

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Regards,
Can
997 Turbo + Bilstein Damptronic "Stage 2" ( Review ) + GIAC ECU Tune ( Fast as a torpedo & reversible to stock - Review ) + Cargraphic Exhaust ( Oh heavenly noise! )

Yes you should not clay over the bra area as the whole idea was designed for the metal painted surface. I imagine the plastic bra would have quite a different surface.

As for the bar itself, i tend to re use it twice or even a 3rd time depending on the amount of dirt and stuff. You can only fold the clay so many times and at some point i just replace it. It should be good in storage for quite some time as long as you make sure its not stored on a dirty shelf or somewhere else collecting dust. I keep mine in a little box with cloth walls hehe. As said before if you drop the clay on the floor, replace it immediately.

I think you're on the right track with using one of your 80gm bars, sounds about right.

hope this helps

indeed shifting is ancient technology - so is a fuel burning engine..  I happen to like both :) 
_____________________________________________________________________
1984 BMW 323i 5spd 2.3L 141 hp (105 kW) More door. Black on black (parting out) 
1986 BMW 325e 5spd 2.7L 121 hp (172 lb·ft) Le Mans Blau on Tan leather.
1986 BMW 325is 5spd 2.5L 168 hp (164 lb-ft) White on Tan leather (parted out) 
2005 Ford Focus S, 5spd 2.0L 136 hp (120lb-ft) CD silver on grey (sold)
1986 Porsche 944, 5spd 2.5L 150 hp (168lb-ft) champagne gold on grown leather. (sold)

Liquid: I shall donate my Pro-Tech cleaning kit  to you the next time we meet

Mission acomplished!  I was running out of the Pro-tech cleaning stuff!! 

@cannga:  No probs, mate!  I had a good laugh myself!  And of course Liquid & my banter is also mostly tongue-in-cheek!  We actually get along really well and agree about most things, but not pro-tech!  Well, I swear by it, and he hates it (personal experiences I guess). 

It's basically a polymer clear-coat paint protection which keeps the paint in a good condition, and generally smooth to the touch (www.protech.mc).  Unfortunately Liquid didn't have a good experience, and apparently they botched up his car, so obviously he doesn't exactly recommend it. 

Basically with Pro-tech, I won't need to clay the car ever, as the paint remains with a smooth finish! 

Atzporsche: thank you. Arshad: enjoy.

Back to claying: I was going to write more but this first review from Amazon is very good so I'll just repost it here. The key to remember is that this process is exceedingly simple (and am not inventing anything here, clay is a routine among detailers):
1. Make a 2 inch pizza with the clay.
2. Squirt plenty of lubrication.
3. Slide gently over paint. You could actually hear and feel the grit being picked up.
4. Voila, stand back, or rather, come close, and rub with your hand. Like magic!

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Amazon - Mothers Gold Clay System - Users' Reviews
After reading numerous raving reviews here at Amazon.com and at several other sites, and learning that auto clay was safe for clear coat paints because it works through a non-abrasive process, I decided to give it a try -- and boy, was I glad I did!

My car was covered with a stubborn deposit of dirt and grime that simply would not come off with a car wash. It seemed that the dirt and grime had gotten lodged in the paint and wouldn't budge no matter how hard I tried washing the car. After every car wash, I would run my fingers through the paint and it would still feel gritty.

That was when I learned about Mothers 07240 California Gold Clay Bar Paint Saving System Kit. The results were astounding! After using it, the paint no longer felt gritty but glassy-smooth. The paint was no longer dulled by contaminants and the car looked like it has a new coat of paint! I was immensely pleased with the results.

Unlike a lot of car polish or polishing compounds that use abrasion to strip away surface contaminants, auto clay simply picks up surface contaminants and locks them into the clay. The clay looks and feels exactly like plasticine (Play-doh®) and it is used along with the included "lubricant" spray (actually, an auto soap that provide lots of suds -- like Meguiar's Gold Class -- will work equally well.)

Mind you, car polish still has its place in paint restoration because claying will not remove scratches; only a car polish or a polishing compound (harsher) can do that. And remember, always follow the claying with an application of wax to shield your paint from new contaminants. Also, clay your car every so often and you will keep the paint looking like new!

I am giving Mothers 07240 California Gold Clay Bar Paint Saving System Kit my highest recommendation. Go on, try it and see for yourself firsthand the difference it makes in your car paint. It's worth every penny and I'm sure you'll be glad you did!
 

Regards,
Can
997 Turbo + Bilstein Damptronic "Stage 2" ( Review ) + GIAC ECU Tune ( Fast as a torpedo & reversible to stock - Review ) + Cargraphic Exhaust ( Oh heavenly noise! )

In re-reading the supposed "user's" review above, why do I have this feeling the son of a gun is an employee of that company?
Ok, I might have been "had," but what he wrote is still very true!

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Regards,
Can
997 Turbo + Bilstein Damptronic "Stage 2" ( Review ) + GIAC ECU Tune ( Fast as a torpedo & reversible to stock - Review ) + Cargraphic Exhaust ( Oh heavenly noise! )

You detailing experts lurking here *knew* this next thing was bound to happen to me whether I want it or not, didn't you?
Porter Cable Dual Action Polisher 

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Regards,
Can
997 Turbo + Bilstein Damptronic "Stage 2" ( Review ) + GIAC ECU Tune ( Fast as a torpedo & reversible to stock - Review ) + Cargraphic Exhaust ( Oh heavenly noise! )

id start on a scrap panel....dont start straight on your 911, also read this

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=63859

make sure your car is very very clean, and even clay it again , make sure you tape up and edges and plastics, id also probably use a finishing polish  with a finishing pad first and see how that works probably sfx-3 ( always use the least aggressive first paints can differ in hardness)

if not step up, to a polish, with polishing pad then you would have to refine again with a finishing polish and pad! ( as a medium polish and polishing pad can leave its own marks like holograms  etc which needs to be refined to give extra gloss )

BUT again id buy a scrap panel and try it on that first....997's tend to have a sticky clear coat, but as your using a DA then you should be ok

^^^Thanks. For those new to detailing, because of my laziness I've distilled the extremely complicated task of car detailing to 4 very bare essential steps:

1. Wash
2. Wax
3. Clay
4. Polish

This thread starts with the 3rd part, claying, which I've managed to delay for 2 years. Claying removes the grit and sand you could feel with your hands when you run it over the paint. (If the paint feels smooth, you don't need it.) Claying howevere does NOT take care of restoring the shine of a new car's paint.

If you've been to the Sistine Chapel before and after "renovation," you know any paint surface accumulates dirt and grime over the years and becomes dull; your car is the same. (LOL sorry I could not resist the comparison.) So step number 4, polishing, deals with this: it rubs off the top grime layer that causes your car to lose its luster.

Key to this step is that device called dual action polisher: it doesn't just rotate, but also *orbits* around the axis as well, hence dual action (read about it here) . This "dual action" feature prevents you to damage the car paint and as an amateur I wouldn't even think about trying to use a pure rotation device. It is inexpensive and exceptionally easy to do.

 Note that there are different foam and different "rubbing" compounds. The terms, in decreasing order of abrasiveness, are "cutting,"  "polishing," then "finishing." (Any expert corrects me as needed please.)  I am lazy and new to this, and don't want to be crazily involved, so I used the mildest foam pad and the mildest compound, namely the foam and compound for "finishing." Still the result is quite beautiful and pleasing! Even the swirls were removed.

For some reason I can't embed the following youtube video, so here is the URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GZVDsiEQ8-w

--
 

Regards,
Can
997 Turbo + Bilstein Damptronic "Stage 2" ( Review ) + GIAC ECU Tune ( Fast as a torpedo & reversible to stock - Review ) + Cargraphic Exhaust ( Oh heavenly noise! )

cannga:

^^^Thanks. For those new to detailing, because of my laziness I've distilled the extremely complicated task of car detailing to 4 very bare essential steps:

1. Wash
2. Wax
3. Clay
4. Polish

This thread starts with the 3rd part, claying, which I've managed to delay for 2 years. Claying removes the grit and sand you could feel with your hands when you run it over the paint. (If the paint feels smooth, you don't need it.) Claying howevere does NOT take care of restoring the shine of a new car's paint.

If you've been to the Sistine Chapel before and after "renovation," you know any paint surface accumulates dirt and grime over the years and becomes dull; your car is the same. (LOL sorry I could not resist the comparison.) So step number 4, polishing, deals with this: it rubs off the top grime layer that causes your car to lose its luster.

Key to this step is that device called dual action polisher: it doesn't just rotate, but also *orbits* around the axis as well, hence dual action (read about it here) . This "dual action" feature prevents you to damage the car paint and as an amateur I wouldn't even think about trying to use a pure rotation device. It is inexpensive and exceptionally easy to do.

 Note that there are different foam and different "rubbing" compounds. The terms, in decreasing order of abrasiveness, are "cutting,"  "polishing," then "finishing." (Any expert corrects me as needed please.)  I am lazy and new to this, and don't want to be crazily involved, so I used the mildest foam pad and the mildest compound, namely the foam and compound for "finishing." Still the result is quite beautiful and pleasing! Even the swirls were removed.

For some reason I can't embed the following youtube video, so here is the URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GZVDsiEQ8-w

 

Can, I have used Griot's orbital and products on my black cars for many years and I think you got your sequence wrong. you never use a polishing product after waxing since most polishes will strip the wax off and the shine you get is not protected.

Claying does not remove wax and its something to do on occasion. The right steps are: wash, dry, polish (orbital or manual), then wax (orbital or manual).

I prefer non synthetic carnauba based waxes for my black TT and red 430 , since most synthetic waxes give an unnatural glassy appearance vs the deep gloss of the carnauba. Try both and you will see the difference. Zymol carries a carnauba wax that contains red pigment which could be useful for your car.

BTW, there is this article in Car and Driver about the new GT3 and the writer talks about his neighbour whose name is Can, has a red TT and is in the same field as you, he was talking about you wasnt he? 

Happy detailing, its therapeutic sometimes.  

2007 997 TT Protomotive

2005 F430

AAHTT:

 

Can, I have used Griot's orbital and products on my black cars for many years and I think you got your sequence wrong. you never use a polishing product after waxing since most polishes will strip the wax off and the shine you get is not protected.

Claying does not remove wax and its something to do on occasion. The right steps are: wash, dry, polish (orbital or manual), then wax (orbital or manual).

I prefer non synthetic carnauba based waxes for my black TT and red 430 , since most synthetic waxes give an unnatural glassy appearance vs the deep gloss of the carnauba. Try both and you will see the difference. Zymol carries a carnauba wax that contains red pigment which could be useful for your car.

BTW, there is this article in Car and Driver about the new GT3 and the writer talks about his neighbour whose name is Can, has a red TT and is in the same field as you, he was talking about you wasnt he? 

Happy detailing, its therapeutic sometimes.  

Hi Anthony,

Yes I now could see it's confusing the way I wrote it, using the word "steps." I should clarify that items 1 to 4 are not sequential steps per se, just the "4 bare essential things any responsible car owners need to do" :-). Thanks for the important correction/clarification.

Oh and yes, that's me in lead article of the world's largest car mag.  It was initially just about the GT3; I think Aaron (the author) decided to include me once he found out what an over-the-top Porsche nut I am. The guys at work (surg's included) and friends are having a great time talking and teasing me about it, the part about the big red butt. LOL.

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Regards,
Can
997 Turbo + Bilstein Damptronic "Stage 2" ( Review ) + GIAC ECU Tune ( Fast as a torpedo & reversible to stock - Review ) + Cargraphic Exhaust ( Oh heavenly noise! )

Before and after shot of my car. I could not help "doctoring" the photographic "technique" a little bit :-) to accentuate the change, but not much. There really is a remarkable transformation to the paint's luster, even with the mildest and shortest of polishing using the Porter Cable.

I thought that my car did not bad at all before the polishing. Once I got going however, it became obvious that my eyes have just gotten used to the dull finish. The paint indeed has lost its luster after 2 years. I very highly recommend polishing -- makes my Turbo baby look like the restored Sistine Chapel.

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Regards,
Can
997 Turbo + Bilstein Damptronic "Stage 2" ( Review ) + GIAC ECU Tune ( Fast as a torpedo & reversible to stock - Review ) + Cargraphic Exhaust ( Oh heavenly noise! )

  maybe more of a reflection there as you can see it on the front fender as well, but looks better, its hard to capture on camera, this is a 50/50 just after compounding so excuse the dust ( tends to do this with heavier polishes) 

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997.2 C2S Guards Red