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Re: Garage floors
The thing I started thinking about those snap-together tile floors?
I betcha when you hammer them down to snap in place: that's semi permanent result. IOW, very difficult to UN-snap.
So, what do you do when you spill oil or paint or gas on the floor and it seeps thru the tile cracks? You just live with the smell for a few months/years?
I betcha when you hammer them down to snap in place: that's semi permanent result. IOW, very difficult to UN-snap.
So, what do you do when you spill oil or paint or gas on the floor and it seeps thru the tile cracks? You just live with the smell for a few months/years?
Re: Garage floors
I recently put down Epoxy Sheild made by Rustolium. It looked great when done.
However, it said to wait 7 days before parking any vehicles on it, which I did. So on the 7th day (night) I parked in the garage. I then went out for a drive and reparked in the garage. The next day when I pulled out of the garage, the epoxy peeled off under the rear tires (see pic)
. Maybe the tires where "hot" when I parked???
My brother has a new Toyota Tacoma, and that side of the garage still looks fantastic.
However, it said to wait 7 days before parking any vehicles on it, which I did. So on the 7th day (night) I parked in the garage. I then went out for a drive and reparked in the garage. The next day when I pulled out of the garage, the epoxy peeled off under the rear tires (see pic)
. Maybe the tires where "hot" when I parked???My brother has a new Toyota Tacoma, and that side of the garage still looks fantastic.
Re: Garage floors
I researched the hell out of this and decided to go with a poured epoxy floor. These are nearly indestructible, as the installer spreads multiple layers and, in my case, ended up with an overall thickness of around 1/4". BTW, whatever you do remember -- the preparation is critical to the success of the finished product. Epoxy paint is notoriously unforgiving of less than perfect prep -- you have to really work hard for it to last. In my case I was willing to spend more up front for a product that should last at least 20 years without a problem...
Re: Garage floors
Quote:
brt3 said:
BTW, whatever you do remember -- the preparation is critical to the success of the finished product.
Amen brother. For instance when they say stuff like "acid etch" they mean it. My floor in an earlier house completely peeled because the paint guys thought they knew more.
NICE floor JP66! I also especially like the lack of clutter along the walls of the garage.
Re: Garage floors
Being a painting contractor i can tell you that the "prep" part of the job is the most critical! First off you MUST remove all paint/grease/dirt from concrete floor. Using TSP and hot water is good for de-greasing. Paint removers are a must for previously painted garages. The next step is critical...the floor must be etched with a good concrete etching compound. Protect yourself really well because this basically is hydrocloric acid in one form or another (keep a bucket of fresh cool water nearby in case it gets on your skin (beleive me you'll know if it does)! After you etch the floor rinse it well with clean water to remove any traces of acid or TSP. Let dry for 2-4 days (it should look nice and white with no residue). If cracks need repairing use the right compound designed for concrete floors and let the patch cure completely (the flexible elastomeric stuff does wonders here). Finally, your ready to tackle the easy part and Rust Oleum Epoxy Foor paint 2 part formula is excellent but just mix what you can use in about an hour, no more. Read the can carefully for specifics. The actual painting of the floor goes by quickly and a lot of concrete can be painted in an hour using a roller and brush. The latex epoxy version is much more user friendly than its oil base counterpart (might be already discontinued) but its still a must to ventilate the garage (use large fans if you have to) until it cures to touch. Lastly, plan on a recoat at least every 3-5 years (the prep work is minimal) to keep it looking A1. I love the griots wheel cleaner in the green bottle! By the way you can purchase all of this at www.griotsgarage.com or simply visit your local paint store (I know Kelley Moore on the West Coast stocks the Rust Oleum brand). Good luck, if done correctly a painted floor enhances the beauty of your porsche and gives a garage a warm look + its easy to keep clean!
Re: Garage floors
Quote:
pcosta said:
Do you know if the company that installed your poured epoxy floor has installers or a franchise in the northeast?
Sorry; I'm just north of San Francisco and used a private contractor. An amazing guy -- he actually lost money on my job but honored his initial quote to the penny.
The story: we live in a valley, and my big issue was the amount of moisture that comes through the slab during our rainy CA winter. By that I mean that concrete repsirates or breathes; during the winter you get more moisture/vapor coming through the slab.
My guy measured this and thought we were fine. Just before install he remeasured with a more accurate electronic moisture meter and started too freak out. The numbers were much higher than what he expected. The problem is this: if you have too much moisture wanting to come through the slab there's nothing -- not paint, epoxy, our poured epoxy -- that will last. To properly execute the job he found a company that makes a product to seal the slab. There are several of these products out there, but few that actually work. My contractor had the manufacturer out to install the sealer. The first coat -- after drying -- began peeling up in sheets. The manufacturer came back out and used a scarifier -- this looks like a giant floor sander and actually removes about 1/16" of the top surface, leaving a very good surface for adhesion. After this the sealer worked perfectly, and my contractor followed up with about three coats of the poured epoxy. My floor is beautiful and should be extremely durable. Amazingly, after all this the contractor honored his bid and didn't try to get me to pay for his mistake. I'm sure he lost money on my job, but I've given him lots of other work and references because of his honesty and dedication to doing it right...
Re: Garage floors
I have RaceDeck flooring (installed myself) and it looks great, is easy on the feet, and is easy to clean....seams are tight so doubt spills would be a problem....if a tile needs replacing, easy to do (pull up from edge and simply replace...same could be done from a spill).
Took weekend to do with my fatherinlaw helping, 32 by 24 3 car garage. Cost under $3000 (labor not included!). Need a compound sliding miter saw (rent $50) and a mallet. Parked cars on it immediately. I do work on my own cars and only concern would be welding...need to cover area under weld since may get melted tiles!
Took weekend to do with my fatherinlaw helping, 32 by 24 3 car garage. Cost under $3000 (labor not included!). Need a compound sliding miter saw (rent $50) and a mallet. Parked cars on it immediately. I do work on my own cars and only concern would be welding...need to cover area under weld since may get melted tiles!
Re: Garage floors
I would love to see a picture bst1, I have painted my garage floor with concrete paint, and despite preparation it is hopeless, particularly when the cars come in with road salt on the wheels, I am about to repaint but woudl like to see the alternatives.
Thanks in anticipation
Thanks in anticipation
Re: Garage floors
www.garagetek.com
I have a grey,black 4x4 checkerboard pattern, just like the sample garage
No smell, mess, chemicals, and it can actually be pulled up and moved if you move
I have a grey,black 4x4 checkerboard pattern, just like the sample garage
No smell, mess, chemicals, and it can actually be pulled up and moved if you move
Re: Garage floors
Good point brt3, one should do a simple test to find out what the moisture content of the slab is before starting any prep work because high moisture content spells almost certain failure down the (immediate) road! Here is a simple test that anyone can do without investing much time or money. Securely tape a 5 x 5 foot section (or more) of plastic that is watertight by taping the perimiter until completely sealed. Wait about 3 to 5 days and observe if any moisture starts forming between the concrete floor and the plastic ( condensation). After 1 week goes by peel the plastic off and see if the concrete is moist or worse, wet. of course the best time to do this is in the winter but severe cases can be seen any time of year (especially below grade). Most paints won't last if moisture is constant and I only know of one product that may help but it is not designed to walk on: Drylock Masonry and Concrete Sealer. This product is used to seal concrete in a basement when you intend to build a subfloor above and you want to seal off moisture to prevent mildew down the road. It takes 2-3 applications to form a good seal. Portland Cement is one of the main ingredients of this bonderizer/sealer paint and thats what the manufacturer probably used. Its breathable too and makes a good solid foundation for the epoxy to bond to. Problem is Epoxy is not breathable so the moisture content of your floor should be tested. I run into unforseen situations that are unpredictable all the time and most of my customers understand this so I end up charging time and material just to cover costs but spell this out clearly in my estimates beforehand. After you loose your a$$ a few times underbidding work you learn the hard way. Glad you gave more work to your contractor, that was the right thing to do.
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