Thanks guys.. To answer some various questions:
1. I'm a Meguiar's guy. It's cheap, available, and works great. The wax market is getting like frigging bottled water marketing. Companies waxing poetic (no pun intended) with all kinds of marketing hype to make their product stand out and differentiate, and guys posting internet photos that don't really tell you a damn thing. Anything can look fabulous in a low-res .jpg viewed on a monitor. It's a waste of time to post a picture, and then blather about how great your polish is. I could wax a new 911 with Rain Dance, and put a photo on here that would burn your retinas out of your eye sockets. Zaino guys love to post pictures. I can't tell you how many "best paint" trophies I've collected with my Boss 429, with nothing more than a coat of Meguiars on an absolutely perfect bare-paint surface. So deep, you can see China in the reflection, and the guy next to me rubbing on his umpteenth zillionth coat of Zaino asking me, "dude, what do you use?? You're paint is frigging incredible!!!". It's not rocket science. It's starting with a perfect surface, or getting to a perfect surface, and then KEEPING it that way. Your main concerns should be ease of application, removal, how long it lasts, and whether it leaves powdery residue. Meguiars is as good as anything else in my opinion, and it is more user-friendly than most. I don't like synthetics or poly's, because I'm dealing with a ton of varied types of paint, original paint jobs, and old-technology lacquers and enamels that can react or craze if sealed in a way that does not "breathe". Good old Carnauba does the trick for me. I use Meguiar's Gold Class on my 997, BTW. And no, I didn't clay it and polish it with a bunch of steps prior. That's just wasting time and energy on brand-new crystal-clean paint. Polishing a new paint surface is like washing a perfectly clean window. You're not getting anything done, you're just playing mind-games with your eyesight, and burning alot of calories and doing alot of steps that could have been skipped, when all you really needed was a good wax/polish product to achieve an identical result. The only time you need to start going nuts with polishes and preps and clay bars is after the paint has been battered over time by outside elements like sun exposure, bugs, towel scratches, and all the funky stuff that winds up on the road, and then gets sprayed all over your car mixed with rain water when you drive in the rain. Sorry so long-winded!!!
2. Yes, everything is functional. But there is no schedule for starting and running each car. We've literally got more than we can handle, so we approach it as best we can. Being a dry and air conditioned environment, a car can sit for years, and we'll put fresh gas in it and it'll run out perfectly. Climate control is EVERYTHING when cars sit.
3. I don't have a 67-69 Camaro. Those are tough to find in "virgin" condition. And the restored Camaro market is a mine-field of fakes, and restorations of cars that had been absolutely destroyed, and then brought back from the dead. They look pretty on the outside, but it's what's hidden that scares you stiff. I'd say that Chevy Camaros and Chevelle's are the toughest to find as truly A+ cars, as they were so abused through the 70's and 80's. Again, the restored Chevies always scare us, fear of the "unknown".
4. It rarely hurts to sell one, because we rarely sell anything. And when we do, it's because we found a better example of the same car, or it was a weak car that we decided ought to go to make room for better stuff.
I'll do a few more photos later, but I'm too busy now.