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    Re: Bilstein PSS10 Damptronics: A Must For The Tur

    Quote:
    cannga said:
    One note regarding the Bilstein PSS10 2 levels of PASM settings as controlled by the cockpit button. A brief "review" first for those who don't already know (as always, experts please correct me if I am wrong): the coil-over has 2 main components, the spring, and the shock absorber, aka dampener. When you push that PASM button, it is the shock absorber that is being changed, NOT the spring. PASM actuates an internal valve in the shock absorber and causes the dampening rate to change as required (high or low).

    With the stock dampener/shock absorber, the change induced by PASM is extreme. Normal is way too soft (causing car to lean, squat, and dive too much, like a Lexus), and Firm is way too hard, causing a very jittery/nervous ride character and some "bad" things such as tires going airborne when one hits mid corner road bumps at high speed.

    In comparison, the Bilstein's 2 levels of dampening rates are closer to each other. Close enough, compared to the bigger change of the stock system, that some first-time users wonder if there is any difference when one pushes the PASM button! In my case, when I first installed the system, I had to deliberately ran over bumps and listen for the noise to make sure that there is a difference. (Now that I've had it for a few months, I could recognize the difference a little better.)

    On a scale of 1 to 10 for firmness, if Stock Normal is 1, and Stock Firm is 10, then I would say that Bilstein Normal is about 6-7, and Bilstein Firm about 8-9. But please remember the numerical evaluation doesn't even begin to describe how much better the Bilstein feels in managing road bumps, versus Stock FIRM. This difference is night and day in favor of the Bilstein. There is an explanation for this: By using much stiffer spring rate, Bilstein could afford to be conservative with the *dampening* rate. By using such soft spring rate, Porsche stock system has to "go nuts" with its dampening rate in the Firm setting, making it so high and hard (to compensate for the soft spring) that the car practically has no shock absorption ability left to use.



    Can, I would agree with your statement regarding the differences between normal/sport.

    I recently replaced my Techart springs for the PSS10's and it was interesting to note how different the two setups are with regards to the sport/normal button.

    there is much more difference between normal/sport with the springs. As Can said, the difference with the PSS10's is almost indistinguisable - although I only have a few days on my car, so i'm sure I'll learn to feel the nuances between both settings.

    Re: Bilstein PSS10 Damptronics: A Must For The Tur

    And if you believe in the idea that for any particular car, for every spring rate, there is a corresponding matching dampening rate, then Bilstein's PASM approach (small range of dampening rates) makes a lot more sense. In other words, the 2 dampening rates of stock PASM are so far apart from each other, that perhaps one must be wrong (out of range)? This is a big factor in my decision to go with the Bilstein coilover, and not just a spring change; I was suspicious of the stock dampener and didn't want to re-use it.

    I continue to be skeptical of that Firm setting of PASM, across other 997's like C2S and GT2 as well, not just the Turbo. I keep thinking next gen's PASM will be different from the current implementation. Maybe a third setting in between the two current levels, or a softening of the jittery and hard Firm setting?


    Quote:
    chrisNY said:
    Can, I would agree with your statement regarding the differences between normal/sport.

    I recently replaced my Techart springs for the PSS10's and it was interesting to note how different the two setups are with regards to the sport/normal button.

    there is much more difference between normal/sport with the springs. As Can said, the difference with the PSS10's is almost indistinguisable - although I only have a few days on my car, so i'm sure I'll learn to feel the nuances between both settings.


    Re: Bilstein PSS10 Damptronics: A Must For The Tur

    Quote:
    eclou said:
    The sky's the limit with these cars. I cannot imagine a better platform to sustain us junkies



    Agreed. My recent drives of a few world class exotic cars (Lambo Gallardo, F430, Ford GT40) left me in a state of ... deep and peaceful contentment . Once unleashed with a simple coilover change and sway bar, the Turbo now feels as aggressive, fun, and agile as any of those fantastic cars, with unmatched road and chassis feedback. That the Turbo could be driven as a daily driver is icing on the cake and makes it in my book, **INCOMPARABLE** ! . I am officially done with suspension mod because I now know I am in the sweet spot.

    (Despite of my praise of the Bilstein suspension, I still think the heart and soul of this car, and what makes it a once in lifetime must-have, is the stupendous engine and its torrential & unending torque. Already feeling like the most powerful of the test car group, the Turbo will truly lay waste to its competitors once/if I decide on an ECU power mod.)

    Re: Bilstein PSS10 Damptronics: A Must For The Tur

    So caanga did you change the toe links at the end? Did you notice any difference?

    Re: Bilstein PSS10 Damptronics: A Must For The Tur

    Had mine at the track for the first time since the suspension work, OMG what a difference. Zero understeer, maximum traction, perfect!
    FWIW, if I was doing it again, probably would not do an ECU tune, I think it's overkill. Just my .02

    Re: Bilstein PSS10 Damptronics: A Must For The Tur

    Ha ha, Chris, thanks for the good laugh. As brutal as I've been with criticism of my own Turbo, I must now give credit where it's due: The Turbo with stiffer springs is a car without peer. Pretty and timeless form (to me, YMMV), precise, fast, fun, furious, with unmatched chassis and road feedback. And yet... driven daily like a Toyota. I joke around about PAG's marketing slogan, but really, there is no substitute.

    My exotic-car group drives showed me one thing: The problem with the Turbo is that once you are used to this level of torque, lesser car just feels so hollow somehow.


    Quote:
    TT Surgeon said:
    Grinning like a sh%t eatin' possum!
    The car is unbelievable now.


    Re: Bilstein PSS10 Damptronics: A Must For The Tur

    I had plan for upgrading the rear toe control arm, but now that the car is so perfect , I hesitate to change anything! At my level of driving (amateur, street, no track), I don't feel any more suspension weakness that needs addressing.

    Nevertheless, perfection doesn't mean I am finished with tinkering. I've read your mini-review and am concerned about the increase in stiffness that you reported. I wouldn't want the car to be any stiffer than it is now. Now that you have some data about my use of the car, would you still recommend that I give the upgraded rear toe link a try?

    Would the improvement in rear end stability/behavior be noticeable at the less taxing level of street use only? Is the increase in stiffness as much as the one associated with, for example, the Tarett drop links? And any increase in road noise?

    Thanks in advance. You are the only person I know who has changed the rear toe link as a single step (not coupled with other suspension changes simultaneously) and therefore are in a unique position to give a good evaluation of this mod.

    Quote:
    GT said:
    So caanga did you change the toe links at the end? Did you notice any difference?


    Re: Bilstein PSS10 Damptronics: A Must For The Tur

    Ok the rear toe link will make the rear end of the car feel more planted. It responds quicker and more precise to your steering inputs, thus making the car more responsive, more racing-like! I am currently driving in a country where roads are very slippery and I find myself having more confidence to drive the car with PSM off due to the above. I can control power oversteer much much better now.
    On the highway it is also quite noticeable because the rear suspension feels less jerky and thus the car somehow feels more planted.
    Honestly I like it a lot, however I have yet to try the car in real city commuting conditions.
    There is no noise, the main difference is when you hit a pothole, you feel it a bit more in your spine.
    Overall I'd say go for it. You might get yet one more grin when you drive your car (I did!)

    Re: Bilstein PSS10 Damptronics: A Must For The Tur

    GT - what would you say to set the height drop and the sways settings to for a Turbo on UK roads with bad surfaces and speed bumps?

    I was thinking on a 20mm drop and having the middle settings on both front and back sways.

    Would appreciate your input though as you have been playing with your Turbo's suspension probably longer than anyone else I know of

    Re: Bilstein PSS10 Damptronics: A Must For The Tur

    Also, I am thinking on going for all Tarett (incl the sways) given their superior reputation to H&R. Lots here to go on the shopping list:

    http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-products/list.htm

    Anyone know where I can get Tarett parts in the UK or whether I need to order from the States?

    Re: Bilstein PSS10 Damptronics: A Must For The Tur

    Saying that, looks like the Tarett sways are OEM GT3 ones - which I believe GT on this thread mentioned weren't a good fit for the Turbo as the front ones are too thick. Hmmmm...

    Re: Bilstein PSS10 Damptronics: A Must For The Tur

    Alex, do yourself a favor and check out the GMG stuff, far superior to tarrett imo.

    Re: Bilstein PSS10 Damptronics: A Must For The Tur

    Thanks for the tip Chris. Those GMG sways look good given they were made specifically for the 997TT:

    http://www.gmgracing.com/porsche_suspension.shtml

    Re: Bilstein PSS10 Damptronics: A Must For The Tur

    They work good too, I was at limerock on Tuesday, nothing could touch me, handled better than a gt2.
    All their stuff is custom made, the sways fit really nice, as does the rest of the stuff. Farnbacherloles gets a lot of their stuff from gmg, they recommend gmg to their customers, and they win races too.
    c

    Re: Bilstein PSS10 Damptronics: A Must For The Tur

    Quote:
    Alex_997TT said:
    GT - what would you say to set the height drop and the sways settings to for a Turbo on UK roads with bad surfaces and speed bumps?

    I was thinking on a 20mm drop and having the middle settings on both front and back sways.

    Would appreciate your input though as you have been playing with your Turbo's suspension probably longer than anyone else I know of



    A long time ago when the Turbo first came out, I remember reading about some guy switching from stock sway bars to GT3 sways. I thought at the time the guy was pure nuts.
    Mid way through this thread, I finally made the connection that the "guy" is actually GT! Yep he was ahead of the game, here's my cheers to the nutty guy !

    Just some inputs on some of your questions, may not be relevant to your plan but here they are.

    1. I initially was going to drop 20mm, my installer dropped only 10mm. The car looks considerably lower even at 10mm, and I am perfectly happy with it. It scrapes moderately more and my front lip does take somewhat of a beating even at this drop. elou dropped 15mm with his PSS10.

    2. To know how much your car has been dropped, you measure ride height. There is a specific way to measure ride height: it's from some specific bolt on the suspension chassis to the ground. This measurement is not easily done unless car is lifted and unless you know exactly where to measure. For us amateurs, the next best thing is measure mid fender height to ground. You might want to measure now, BEFORE the change, just as a way of documentation. I also pick an arbitrary spot from one of the suspension arm pivot point closest to the ground and measure there (more accurate than mid fender height?) because I am paranoid. Accepted variation between wheel height at the 4 corners is 10mm.

    3. I would go with GMG or H&R sway bars. The frustrating part about the sway bars is I have found no technical data about them - a way of measuring their relative stiffness. My recommendation is based on the fact that they are made specifically for the Turbo and that many reputable tuners use them. (If you decide on GMG, our cars, a few thousand miles apart, would "eerily" be mirror image of each other. Cargraphic, HRE P40, Bilstein, GMG. I think you have GREAT taste! . You have the power upgrade but I'll take care of that in due time.)

    4. Here is a quick review on the Tarett drop link. Without: Car is more quiet, softer, sometimes feel "bouncy" (that's the best word I could think of). With Tarett: Car is a little more noisy (road noise transmission through tires), feels stiffer for sure, but also more planted and precise. There is a tradeoff of NVH versus precision and better road feel here. So I think maybe add this in the second phase, if you somehow feels car is a little "bouncy" without it.(Perhaps GT could give his input here.) Tarett is the only company I know of that makes drop links for 997. BTW, aware of Chris's point above and don't want to detract from the main point of this thread but FWIW I've read maybe hundreds of users' report on many forums and have not run into even one complaint about Tarett components. My personal experience is that their customer service is beyond reproach and some of their components, like the Rear Toe Control Arm that GT is talkinga about, is made by someone else, in this case a fairly well known and reputable company, ERP.

    Re: Bilstein PSS10 Damptronics: A Must For The Tur

    Alex, I dropped my car appox 15mm and I am happy with clearance most of the times in ldn. I mean you always have to drive through speedbumps diagonally etc and always be prepared for respraying the front lip a couple of times pr year but one can't have it all.. The tt comes way too high from the factory compared to GT3/GT2 with too much body roll etc and imo 15mm is a good compromise.
    Regarding the sways I chose the GT3 ones because I had experience with them from the 996tt but nowadays there re more choises out there. My tuner thinks that the front one is too thick for the tt but my trials indicated to me that setting 1 (softest) is still too soft for my taste; so I am still using setting 2 mainly. The good things about aftermkt sways is that it takes a few minutes to change setting. So when in ldn I have setting 1 front/rear to improve ride quality when on track or in europe I change the 2 and 2.
    Re tarrett links caanga's observations are similar to mine, except the road noise which I did not really notice. I would recommend to go for them.
    Now the rear toe links had an interesting effect to the car.. Apart from an old Honda CRX, I had never changed any similar suspensions component on a car so I did not know what to expect. Porsche deliberatly softened all the connections in the tt to allow for some extra comfort. This accounts for most of the criticism that GT3/GT2 owners (and I) have of the tt. Because of these inherent allowances from the factory, there is always a delay in steering response, compared to a say gt3, is robbing imo a lot from the feeling of the car. With damptronics/sway bars and stock wheels the car still felt pretty (dissapointingly imo) soft on the track. It was fast but soft. With that toe link the difference was quite apparent immediately. Now direct steering input= direct steering response. When the rear end starts to go then you have much better control of it. The compromise for me is acceptable since the jarring on potholes is still there without this component, it is just a bit harsher now.I was getting my car aligned yesterday and I took a good look under the car and saw also the other suspension connections that have been deliberatly softened in the tt, I might explore changing some more.
    So it is quite clear to me now that it is just a matter of personal taste and compromise. If u want the tt as a tourer with lot of power and ability then keep stock. Or maybe add bilsteins. If you want the tt to have more of a racecar response/ driving feeling with a bit of compromise in ride quality then changing some of those components is an excellent idea.
    Compared to all the above though, the dymags were still probably the best mod. Steering, handling, braking, power improvement with 1 mod! Lighter wheels are a must I think for the tt.

    Re: Bilstein PSS10 Damptronics: A Must For The Tur

    This is what GMG recommend for the TT:

    http://www.gmgracing.com/porsche_suspension.shtml

    Quote:

    * GMG WC Sport sway bar set
    * Leave the existing sway bar end links our bar will work with the stock links and you will have no popping noise problems. Replacing drop-links with a monoball style end link will eventually cause them to make noise this is why we recommend staying with the stock style drop link.
    * GMG WC rear toe steer kit
    * GMG Dog bone kit




    I asked about whether the dog bone kit was really necessary and was told:

    Quote:

    We highly recommend doing this as it will do two things:

    1. Allow you to correct the rear suspension geometry and adjust camber from the dog bones. You will set the lower eccentric at a static position.

    2. Additionally this will take away from a lot of the rear suspension slop when cornering hard. You have probably noticed the rear end to walk around and take a set under hard cornering. The rear dog bones also help with rear tire wear.




    Also, with regards to drop height I have been told (not by GMG):

    Quote:

    Ride heights for the:
    * Turbo is 138mm/153mm fr/rr
    * GT2 is 118mm/133mm fr/rr
    * GT3 is 112mm/135mm fr/rr

    Dropping ride height by 20mm is quite conservative, with suspension linkages between the Turbo and GT2 relatively the same.



    Re: Bilstein PSS10 Damptronics: A Must For The Tur

    I would concur with everything Fabryce told you from GMG. I also added the solid thrust bushings, but may not be necessary. Mine dropped 20mm exactly with the GMG WC springs, same ht as a gt2.
    Alex, if you should happen to hit NYC on biz, stop by and drive my car and you'll be calling GMG the next day without a doubt!
    FWIW, the guys at Farnbacherloles who installed my stuff also said NOT to add drop links for the same reasons. Now, these guys all race in the Rolex series and know a few things about our cars. If they wanted to sell yet another component it would be easy to say ' yeah you need these too...' , but they don't.
    Agree with GT 100% on the toe links too.
    c

    Re: Bilstein PSS10 Damptronics: A Must For The Tur

    Chris/Alex/GT,

    Wow thanks to everyone's inputs this thread has become an excellent source of suspension info. Wish I had come across it before I got started!

    For anyone following this thread and new to modding, hope you are not discouraged by the slightly more complex latter part of the discussion. We are just talking about how deep to go into my therapeutic 8 STEPS TO TURBO NIRVANA , and some adjustments of the settings. The first 3 steps are simple, easy, and already will have transformed your car. A (modified) reprint of my plan below; it is by no means definitive, just a starting point to be adjusted to your need. For example, someone who tracks the car would likely want to travel further down this path of happiness -- see what Chris and GT do.

    Do keep in mind there is some likely trade-off between NVH versus suspension precision/feedback as one goes down the path. This trade-off is the main reason why I would suggest to proceed in steps and why I am now asking these questions about the rear toe control arm.

    BTW, proceeding in step is not that expensive. In the US, the added cost is a very cheap $150 for alignment, per each separation. In return, you get to learn what each mod does and that is fun, educational, and sometimes eye-opening! I actually did sway bar, PSS10, and Tarett as 3 separate steps.

    >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
    Phase 1:
    1. Bilstein PSS10 Coilover with a height drop of 10 mm.
    2. Street GT3 alignment, meaning a change of front camber from -.4 to -1.2.
    3. GMG anti-sway bar, set to middle stiffness (holes) both front and rear.

    Phase 2:
    4. Tarett Drop Link
    5. Rear Toe Control Arm with Bump Steer
    6. More aggressive alignment: front toe out, rear toe in.
    7. Corner balance, once happy with all the changes.
    8. Even more toys and more agressive alignment: rear upper control arms, front thrust arm bushing, more negative camber front and rear, motons, Dymag wheels, cup tires, strut brace, etc.

    Re: Bilstein PSS10 Damptronics: A Must For The Tur

    I think next I might try the rear upper control arm (is that what we call dog bones?), and also sth for the front suspension. (Front thrust arm bushing? is that the main one for the front system?)
    Another point to add here, while trying to get to -1.25 camber in the front, we realised that I was only able to get this settng in the front right but not the front left side! The screws in the top mount would not allow for that on one side..! Apparently I was told that they ve seen quite a few other cars with that issue. So now we are going to have to modify the left side top mount screw hole to allow for that setting. I ll post results when done.

    Re: Bilstein PSS10 Damptronics: A Must For The Tur

    BTW you don't need a front strut brace on any 996 or 997, they already have one from the factory, it's good enough for the cup cars. Anybody trying to sell you one is just thst...trying to sell you something you do not need. sorry this is a pet peave of mine...
    Another option is Champion or H&R springs with a good alignment. That's what I have and I am pretty happy with it so far. We have a track day next week so we shall see.

    Re: Bilstein PSS10 Damptronics: A Must For The Tur

    This is what I am getting:

    * Bilstein Damptronics (ClubSport version)
    * GMG WC Sport sway bar set
    * GMG WC rear toe steer kit
    * GMG Dog bone kit

    Then...

    * Ride height check and adjust
    * Corner weight check and adjust
    * Geometry check and adjust
    * Test drive

    Going to start with a 20mm drop and middle stiffness settings on the front and rear sways.

    GMG are going to send me a recommended set-up for all components though with the kits.

    Can't wait

    Re: Bilstein PSS10 Damptronics: A Must For The Tur

    Alex, you are going to love it! Try to book a trackday somewhere to in order to better understand the massive difference. The UK roads have too much traction to be able to fully see the difference within safe speeds!

    Re: Bilstein PSS10 Damptronics: A Must For The Tur

    Nice Alex!

    Re: Bilstein PSS10 Damptronics: A Must For The Tur

    Have fun with the mods and enjoy the transfomration!

    Quote:
    Alex_997TT said:
    This is what I am getting:

    * Bilstein Damptronics (ClubSport version)
    * GMG WC Sport sway bar set
    * GMG WC rear toe steer kit
    * GMG Dog bone kit

    Then...

    * Ride height check and adjust
    * Corner weight check and adjust
    * Geometry check and adjust
    * Test drive

    Going to start with a 20mm drop and middle stiffness settings on the front and rear sways.

    GMG are going to send me a recommended set-up for all components though with the kits.

    Can't wait


    Re: Bilstein PSS10 Damptronics: A Must For The Tur

    Quote:
    TT Surgeon said:
    ...snip...
    FWIW, if I was doing it again, probably would not do an ECU tune, I think it's overkill. Just my .02



    Chris,

    Please elaborate! Why is it overkill? Are there aspects of your ECU mods that you don't like? TIA.

    Re: Bilstein PSS10 Damptronics: A Must For The Tur

    ECU, exhaust are necessary to get this car alive. Then GT2 or modded vtgs with intercoolers make this baby an enzo in terms of performane without any other major compromises. And is really special about those 911s is that . the chassis can totally take that power!
    So dont labour too much about it and do it when you feel ready caanga. I guarantee you, you'll love it!

    Re: Bilstein PSS10 Damptronics: A Must For The Tur

    Quote:
    cannga said:
    Quote:
    TT Surgeon said:
    ...snip...
    FWIW, if I was doing it again, probably would not do an ECU tune, I think it's overkill. Just my .02



    Chris,

    Please elaborate! Why is it overkill? Are there aspects of your ECU mods that you don't like? TIA.


    Well, right now, I'm in the fastest group and with the aide of the new suspension, nothing really touches me. 500hp is probably enough 90% of the time. But, I will admit it came in handy against a couple of gt2's the last time I was out!
    Not sure the additional 40 or so HP over the exhaust is enough reason to justify toasting the warranty?
    Just food for thought, it's too late for me, it's done I've got 26k miles so my warranty is 1/2 over anyway.

    Re: Bilstein PSS10 Damptronics: A Must For The Tur

    True but unleasing 650hp just after the apex and feeling 1.2g as the 4wd bites on the tarmac propelling you fwd in a controlled slide is just an experience that very very few cars can ever give you. For me, that alone made it worth binning the warranty..!

    Re: Bilstein PSS10 Damptronics: A Must For The Tur

    In case you don't already know, some basic info on DROP LINKS, and my impression of the Tarett drop links as installed in my car. Experts please chime in and correct as necessary.

    These are metal bars that connect the car's sway bars to the suspension frame. There are 2 in front (long), and 2 in the back (shorter). As showed in the picture below, after-market drop links improve on stock on three aspects:
    1. The length is adjustable. Important for corner balancing, as I'll explain a bit later.
    2. The bar itself is more robust.
    3. The connection part is a teflon lined rod end (with what looks like a stainless steel ball joint), as opposed to the rubber bushing of stock.

    Note that point number 3 is the general principle behind the improvement for a number of other after-market suspension components as well, such as rear toe link, dog bone, etc. You are replacing rubber with metallic connectors. In the process, possibly/probably trading NVH for precision and feedback. In addition, this is not a trail I am blazing here; I understand these types of drop links are routine for cars with racing, or even just sporty, aspiration.

    The Bilstein PSS10 kit comes with replacement drop link for the front **ONLY**, the replacement front drop link is shorter than stock and is necessary. It looks like the stock drop link in the picture below, except that the bar is shorter, thicker, and the rubber part is blue in color. So unless you are using Tarett, your PSS10 installation will have a Bilstein front drop link, and stock OEM rear drop link.

    Among after-market companies, there are variations. I've read -- no direct experience -- if not made correctly drop links could break. Among reputable companies, the most commonly used by Porsche forums' users seems to be Tarett Engineering. http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-products/996-986-front-drop-link-set-996fdlnk-detail.htm . Another name that I've seen is http://www.theracersgroup.com/shop/trgracing.php; but I have no other info to report.

    What the drop links are supposed to do:
    1. Make more obvious/direct the effect of the sway bar on the suspension.
    2. Make more obvious/direct the adjustments of the sway bar's settings on the suspension.
    3. Allow for proper corner balance. Google and read on your own if you are interested as this is a long topic. I hope I am making some sense here as this is more easily understood if you could see for yourself how the sway bars are connected to the suspension frame. Anyway, very briefly, from my web base research : Corner balancing is done by adjust the height of the coilover at each corner, with a load resembling the driver *in the car* on the passenger seat. The goal is to achieve some similarity between total weights of LF + RR and RF + LR. The perfect goal is LF + RR = RF + LR, but most would settle for something within a few percentage points of each other. The driving goal is to have the car behave similarly between right turn and left turn.
    At any rate, when corner balancing is finished, the distance between the suspension chassis and the sway bars are possibly different at all 4 corners. If this difference is small, and if you are not a perfectionist I assume, a fixed length drop links will be fine. However, if you are of type A personality (and you know who you are ), then you must have at least one front and one rear drop link to be adjustable in length, otherwise a preload will be placed on the sway, which I've been told is not a good thing.

    Anyway, back to the drop links, here is my impression of the effect of the Tarett drop links, versus stock:
    Without: Car is more quiet, softer, sometimes feel "bouncy" (that's the best word I could think of). With Tarett: Car is a little more noisy (road noise transmission through tires), feels stiffer for sure, but also more planted and precise.

    I guess the surprise part about the drop links is that just changing the drop links make the suspension feels stiffer overall and the car feels more "planted" even in straight lines. I was expecting changes only in corners, as if you think about it, that is supposed to be the only time when sway bars' effect come into action. There is a tradeoff of stiffness versus precision and better road feel here. So I think maybe add this in the second phase, if you somehow feels car is a little "bouncy" without it.

    GT's impression of the drop links as reported above, is similar to mine, except that he did not notice any additional road noise. My point about a little more road noise is perhaps mute, because after the FANTASTIC, MUST-HAVE Cargraphic Loud Exhaust is installed, I am now thinking "what additional noise?"

     
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