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    New owner looking for help with upgrades

    Hi guys, I just took delivery of an '05 CT that is being used as my daily driver.
    The first thing I want to do is put on a decent set of wheels and tyres and upgrade the motor for increased power.
    I know that RC is not a fan of modifying cars, particulalry new ones, but we are all different. After coming from a chipped MB S600 with around 600hp and 1000nm the CT is kinda slow and the 18" factory wheels look pretty boring.
    The car will be used both for business and towing a car to trackdays and club sprints, as I'm a bit of a track junkie.

    Does anyone here have personal experience with either the Techart or Gembballa kits? What about chip tuners and other alternatives? Is there anything that I need to look out for on wheel upgrades i.e. the best offsets to use with particular rim tyre combinations?
    I'm new to the CT scene, so any suggestions pointing me in the right direction would be really appreciated.

    Re: New owner looking for help with upgrades

    Quote:
    stephens said:
    and upgrade the motor for increased power.
    I know that RC is not a fan of modifying cars



    How about the Cayenne Turbo Powerkit upgrade, like the one RC just did to his CT?
    Or how about Sportec, www.sportec.ch/index.htm

    Re: New owner looking for help with upgrades

    Looks like an ECU upgrade and bypass pipe are the hot ticket. Found some really good info on 6speedonline. I wouldn't do the powerkit as it is a waste of money for me. I have a Ferrari for thrills, the Cayenne is just a drive/tow car.
    FYI, an AP Racing big brake kit would cost around 6K, a little bit better value than the Powerkit, but still not necessary for my usage of the car.

    Re: New owner looking for help with upgrades

    Quote:
    stephens said:
    Looks like an ECU upgrade and bypass pipe are the hot ticket. Found some really good info on 6speedonline. I wouldn't do the powerkit as it is a waste of money for me. I have a Ferrari for thrills, the Cayenne is just a drive/tow car.
    FYI, an AP Racing big brake kit would cost around 6K, a little bit better value than the Powerkit, but still not necessary for my usage of the car.



    If you have a Ferrari for thrills and the Cayenne is just a drive/tow car, the big question is: why do you need more power? Sounds a little bit contradictory to me.
    I'm not a friend of aftermarket kits because they usually don't deliver the reliability I expect and usually void the warranty too.

    Regarding the brake, you can't get anything better than the powerkit brake for the CT. No matter if "racing" brake or not on the sticker...no aftermarket system is adapted to the Cayenne's ABS/PSM system and PASM air suspension setup.

    Better value is in my eyes a product which:
    A. offers better performance but at the same time factory reliability and warranty
    B. doesn't pose a safety risk

    Aftermarket braking kits for various Porsche models have been tested by various car magazines in Germany and I don't remember ONE SINGLE test where the aftermarket brake had better braking performance than the original brake.
    Porsche is a company which is very very "anal" about suspension setups, brake setups and tire setups.
    These are the three major "domains" in a Porsche which usually can't be improved using aftermarket parts, no matter what they cost or if the have a "racing" sticker on them. So unless somebody wants to go for a non-compromising coilover kit and semi-slicks, any modification would just degrade performance. Believe it or not but this is one of the major reasons why I buy Porsche products only and no Mercedes anymore.

    Like I said before: especially regarding the Cayenne, you get what you're paying for.

    Personally, I think you should just keep your CT like it is and "invest" the saved money for your Ferrari and other stuff.

    Re: New owner looking for help with upgrades

    RC as I pointed out in my first post, it is replacing a chipped LWB MB S600TT with 600hp+and 1000nm+, this is the first driver I have had for years that would not do an 11 down the quarter mile, so comparatively it is extremely lethargic.
    The Ferrari is already being developed as a track weapon, what I spend on the CT will not effect this.

    Your analysis of performance brakes perpetuates a common misundersatnding of brake systems generally.
    As long as your stock brakes are capable of locking up ie engaging the ABS, there is no reduction in stopping distance with a brake kit. The car will still reach the same amount of peak neg G's whilst braking, it will just be able to sustain them for longer. The onlyway to improve braking distances is to use stickier tyres.....
    What the brake kit does, is allows the brakes to continue to function at the same level of retardation, when a stock system starts to fade.
    You do not need to reprogram computer systems, because you are not changing any parameters for any of the electronic systems. There is therefore no effect on ABS/PSM or PASM. I am wondering why you thought there was.

    The problem you complain about in other posts, would probably be reolved with better pads and fluid, which are designed to continue functioning at much higher temperatures than stock. There is no benefit in upgrading to a big brake kit unless, after upgrading to better pads and fluid, you still experience brake fade. For 99.99% of people this would only happen on a race track.

    There are many aftermarket tuners that produce suspension and engine/drivetrain componants that improve the cars. Some of these are in fact used by factory supported race teams. Porsche cars and engineers are guided by compromisel, not perfection.

    Re: New owner looking for help with upgrades

    Quote:
    stephens said:
    Your analysis of performance brakes perpetuates a common misundersatnding of brake systems generally.
    As long as your stock brakes are capable of locking up ie engaging the ABS, there is no reduction in stopping distance with a brake kit. The car will still reach the same amount of peak neg G's whilst braking, it will just be able to sustain them for longer. The onlyway to improve braking distances is to use stickier tyres.....
    What the brake kit does, is allows the brakes to continue to function at the same level of retardation, when a stock system starts to fade.
    You do not need to reprogram computer systems, because you are not changing any parameters for any of the electronic systems. There is therefore no effect on ABS/PSM or PASM. I am wondering why you thought there was.

    There are many aftermarket tuners that produce suspension and engine/drivetrain componants that improve the cars. Some of these are in fact used by factory supported race teams. Porsche cars and engineers are guided by compromisel, not perfection.



    Regarding aftermarket brakes: all tested systems provided LONGER brake distances. You may be right about fading but I prefer a "weaker" brake with a shorter braking distance than one which doesn't show fading but needs 10 meters more braking distance from 125 mph to 0.
    Regarding the Cayenne Turbo, I have to tell you that the ABS/PSM/PASM system has a big deal to do with the brake.
    Especially the new braking assistant on the Carrera4/4S.
    The balance of braking power between the front and rear axle is also very important, especially on the 911.
    There are so many factors involved which aftermarket products can't take care of.

    And just like you said: there are aftermarket tuners who deliver certain products but these products are usually good for one purpose only or if they're bad, they actually make everything worse.
    Regarding track use, things are even more complicated: the stock setup of the 911 for example is often better than a lot of aftermarket kits on most tracks. Coilover kits have the advantage over the stock setup that they can be adjusted. But be honest: how many owners usually do that? They just adjust it to the lowest acceptable setting, using the stiffest springs/setting too. I can assure you that this setup would never outrun the stock setup on most tracks. But it feels stiffer and sportier and most drivers may be able to achieve better times with this setup because they weren't capable of driving the stock setup at the limit. It is a psychological thing too, sometimes.

    But anyway: a chipped S600 is nice but over here in Germany, we actually don't care too much about such cars.
    A Mercedes S-class is no sportscar, no matter if it has 500 HP or 800 HP, no offense meant.
    We're more into raw material which can be used for the street too. Track prepped cars are usually only good for the track if they're prepared right.

    Porsche engineers are not looking for compromises, this is something non-Porschephiles still have to understand.
    The best example is the Boxster S: almost no car worldwide is faster in slalom/handling tests, it even outruns the Ferrari Enzo in such tests. Most cars, including the 997, are usually 5 kph slowlier. So where is the compromise because the Boxster has a reputation as a woman's Porsche or an entry-level Porsche?

    Porsche usually tries to offer comfort AND sportiness.
    The only compromise they made is actually the PASM system.
    Unfortunately the setup of the 911 PASM isn't perfect, the comfort setting seems to be faster on most tracks than the sport setting (although there is again that "psychological thing", most drivers claim that they do wonders with the PASM sport setting... ).

    Racing teams are usually using different brake systems, brake lines, brake fluids, etc. You can't compare a setup of a race car with a street car. Or would you want to get such a weak braking performance with cold brakes that a Ford Explorer would probably come to an earlier stop from 62 mph to 0?

    Let me see: a stock car like the 997 Carrera S at up to 1500 kg weight with 355 HP only does the Nordschleife in 7:59 (Walter Röhrl Porsche testdriver, not officially confirmed) and 8:05 (Horst v. Saurma, SPORT AUTO editor-in-chief, officially confirmed) on stock tires. In the wet pavement test (something specific to SPORT AUTO), the same car holds the record. On street tires!
    Now compare these times with times of REAL track/racing cars on the Nordschleife and there are only a few seconds difference, considering the same power/weight ratio.

    In my opinion, it is a waste of money, time and even engineering brains to modify a Porsche for track use with aftermarket parts. I'm talking about those casual track drivers, not professional racing. But to each his own I guess.

    Re: New owner looking for help with upgrades

    I realy enjoy reading all these different arguments... si interesting. Thanks RC, thanks stephens!!!!!

    Re: New owner looking for help with upgrades

    RC
    The "tuner" cars are a full 20seconds faster at the 'Ring.
    EBD electronic brake distribution works off the ABS sensors and is once again a function of traction. A friend has an issue with his Super Modified Production racer confusing the G sensors, causing the ABS to fail, turned out to be a faulty lateral sensor. These are standard electronics- EBD, ABS etc working with Brembo race brakes, coilovers, slicks etc. I can tell you catagorically that even a weekend warrior such as myself, has no problem in feeling the difference in upgrades and seeing corresponding reduction in laptimes. Changing to R spec tyres would cause a far greater change to the electronic systems than any brake upgrade and I have yet to see any Porsche on the track have problems with coping. As to ASR/PASM etc, my laptimes are consistently seconds faster with these systems switched out.

    I would reccomend ANY enthusiast drivers having his brakes lines switched to braided SS, upgrade to a race fluid such as SRF (which is less hydroscopic than street fluids)and upgrade brake pads. I can assure you that with proper selection of pads, you will not be "out braked by an Explorer" with cold brakes.
    You have made a very good point about the "average" driver though, but to me a 997 is not a good daily driver. Two door, two seat, meaning a pain to get in and out of in car parks along with many other compromises that for manymake a 4 door luxo-barge far more usefull and comfortable. As a sports car on the street the Cayenne would be as quick/quicker given most peoples inability (and lack of desire) to drive anywhere the limit on the streets. At the same time, on a track it is overweight and underpowered. The GT3 RS on the other hand represents everything a Porsche should be.
    Give me a stock Carrera 2 and an aftermarket tuned one with brakes, aero and engine upgrades along with weight loss, pretty much typical of many tuner offerings and I would expect to go at LEAST 4 seconds per minute a lap faster add tyres to the mix and I would be looking for 6-7 secs per minute laptime.
    At Phillip Island race track in Australia, a well driven street 360 will do a 1:45 on hoosiers. A 360C will do around a 1:38 on slicks and a 360GT will do a 1:32 on slicks.
    All three cars have within 50hp of each other.The differences? Weight (to an extent only - the 360C and 360GT weights are very similar),power - many of the 360C's have similar power to the 360GT, suspension- big differences, brakes- big differences, aero- big differences, tyres -the 360C and GT run the same rubber, the Hoosiers are only 1-2 secs a lap off the slicks . There are signifcant differences in lap times for the same drivers in each of these cars, so even "mere mortals" are able to take advantage of the improvements. Iknowthis becuase someof the guys I drive with have gone from 360 to 360C to 360GT.

    On a final note, I would have thought the S600 as an ideal car for Germany, as it is an awesome long distance high speed cruiser, particularly without the speedlimiter. Faster accelerating than a Porsche Turbo from 80-240kmh (don't ask how I know ) Sure it's not built for Alpine passes, but is great everywhere else. Is this not the home ground of Brabus?

    Re: New owner looking for help with upgrades

    I certainly do not know enough about racing brakes to contribute significantly to this discourse, and you are clearly working at a level far beyond any budget I would consider. However, a friend of mine is an electrical engineer with a very large company that does a good deal of work for several of the major car manufacturers (not Porsche, as far as I know). His explanation of design of ABS circuitry (this was several years ago, and my memory ain't what it used to be) would suggest that the situation is not quite as simple as you indicate. Aside from the front/rear braking balance to which RC referred, modern ABS systems are not just a matter of "rapid on/off" switches. Just for one example, there are variables regarding the rate of force application during the "on" phase that have to be selected, based on the very pad composition and tire design factors you describe. Each manufacturer (if it is doing a good job) will match those characteristics to its anticipated pad/wheel/tire combinations (with leeway, of course). My friend explained (though I have no idea how to verify this) that this is one reason why aftermarket brakes and pads, while possibly (even likely) providing better fade resistance on the track, may actually provide inferior real-world performance than the stock brakes. As for proving or disproving this in the CT, I think we are all more than willing to let the experiment be done, - with your money Please post some before and after specs for us.

    However, if you've followed the posts on this forum, you'll note that GM Austin and I had similar experiences with the CTs at the Porsche Driving Experience, in that the stock brakes never showed any significant fading. Short of RC's Autobahn-busting, it is hard to imagine, if this is your daily driver and not a track car, that you would really stress the brakes, and I wouldn't invest in any changes until you found out that you really needed them.

    Finally, please make sure and post your results after your performance mods are made. Since warranty concerns are an issue for me (the main reason I went with the PowerKit), I would be especially interested in the results of any exhaust mods, which might not be so frowned upon by PCNA. Have you found any reliable, objective-party data that indicates a significant HP boost on the CT with the assorted exhaust/bypass mods. My own experience with such mods on other cars in the past is that dropping the exhaust pressures sometimes did more harm than good with turbos, at least along broad segments of the power curve. And I don't have enough money to experiment with pipes from several different manufacturers, just to see if one of them has the magic combination.

    And here's the real "finally": How much of your dissatisfaction is due to the dreaded throttle-hesitation issue? In other words, even with more HP, will you still be unhappy? Having driven the stock CT, the PowerKit version, and the RUF version, I can tell you that the latter two certainly have more oomph, and the PK definitely has different shifting patterns, but the throttle-hesitation is still a much bigger daily pain than the overall lack of HP.

    We are all eager to hear the results of your "experiments"! Keep us posted.

    Re: New owner looking for help with upgrades

    I have already noticed the car is far more responsive with PSM switched out. Are there any other tricks I should be aware of?

    Re: New owner looking for help with upgrades

    If you have air suspension and you will use the car mainly for houling a track car, and daily use, why look into suspension.

    Race brake pads and disk, are designed for for performance at the higher operating temperature found on the track.

    Engine ECU is also programmed for conforming to varius regulations and not optimal performance.

    All these things you know..but im with RC, your payoff is better somewhere else.

    Regards

    Johnnie

     
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