A 5-turn spin is pretty impressive Fanch.

Actually, aquaplaning is down to simply tyre pressure and speed. There is a mathematical calculation which will tell you when a tyre will aquaplane. Higher tyre pressures are better and lower speeds are better.

Of course, we all know that the width of the tyre and the tread depth make a difference. But I believe this is down to the ability to remove the water. Remove the water and obviously you won't aquaplane.

I'm very cautious in the rain. With new tyres I'll probably drop to below 180 km/h. With worn tyres below 160 km/h. If it really starts bucketing down then you have to slow even more.

I'm not sure I agree with the advice that there is nothing you can do and you should do nothing.

First, a good driver is always looking ahead. You should see the problems before you arrive. It shouldn't be a suprise. Not getting yourself into a mess is the best way to get out of it.

Second, I don't agree about aquaplaning being sort of an all or nothing thing. I can often feel (and see in my rear view mirror) that part of the tyre is not making contact but that part of it is. If you've got a little traction then the PSM can work a bit and you might be able to countersteer. Ditto if the back wheels are aquaplaning and not the front. And ditto if only one front wheel is aquaplaning. Each situation is different and you have to be able to read it.

Actually, the biggest problem I find in the wet is tramlining. the Water will collect in the ruts in the road. The wheel will aquaplane on that water. But the edge of the tyre can still be directed by the top of the ridge. The end result is that the ridge can drive the wheel left or right of centre and there is no traction to oppose that force. This can feel just like a tail slide but instead of correcting for it you probably want to get the wheel up out of the valley on to the ridge where you will have traction. Counter steering is the opposite of what you want.

Those are my two cents worth.

Stephen