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    First detailing

    After a Mr. Clean wash, Griot's clay, Klasse AIO (with Porter Cable), 2 coats of Klasse HGSG (with Porter Cable) and 2 coats of Meguiar's Gold Class Liquid Carnauba wax (with Porter Cable), here he is. Absolutely the most stunningly beautiful car I've ever seen.

    Patriot
    '05 Carrera (Arctic Silver/Black) (12/04 build)
    19" Carrera S Wheels, Xenons, Bose, CD changer, Nav, Sport Steering wheel, Heated seats, Power seat package

    Re: First detailing

    Looking good, just needs the clear side markers more pics please.

    Re: First detailing

    Quote:
    JP66 said:
    Looking good, just needs the clear side markers more pics please.



    Thanks for the props. Ordered the clears from bumperplugs.com . . . should be arriving soon.

    Patriot

    Re: First detailing

    Why do you wax it on top of Klasse's High Gloss?

    Re: First detailing

    A lot of people do so just to get a carnauba look with arcylic protection underneath. Looks better than just the SG IMO. You can top it with a lot of different finishing products, so some even top with liquid polymers like Platinum UPP, Mezerna FMJ, etc. P21S carnauba is also a good choice.

    Re: First detailing

    when nanotech comes into prime, your car can look like that 24/7/365 the day it comes from the factory.

    Re: First detailing

    Where did you get the light covers?

    Re: First detailing

    Now that's SHARP!!!

    Re: First detailing

    Quote:
    jjr1 said:
    Where did you get the light covers?



    If you're asking me, there's no light covers on my Arctic Silver 997.

    Patriot.

    Re: First detailing

    Sorry it looks like a black surround on your headlights?

    Re: First detailing

    Patriot you need to run down to Momentum and get clear side markers. If you wanna save call Suncoast.

    Re: First detailing

    Quote:
    Patriot said:
    After a Mr. Clean wash, Griot's clay, Klasse AIO (with Porter Cable), 2 coats of Klasse HGSG (with Porter Cable) and 2 coats of Meguiar's Gold Class Liquid Carnauba wax (with Porter Cable), here he is.



    Just curious, why would you need to clay a new car? Since it was a December build I can't imagine it sat outside unprotected for very long.

    Phil

    Re: First detailing

    While they don't really need clay, there seems to be some surface enhancement, especially in smoothness, by using clay and a very mild polish on a new car. The final results are highly dependant on prep, not the wax you use to top it off. Do it right the first time so you can get to driving!

    Re: First detailing

    Quote:
    Justin said:
    While they don't really need clay, there seems to be some surface enhancement, especially in smoothness, by using clay and a very mild polish on a new car. The final results are highly dependant on prep, not the wax you use to top it off. Do it right the first time so you can get to driving!



    I really don't understand the need/desirability of using clay and polish on an undamaged new finish. Since I realize that I don't know everything, I decided to ask an expert about this. Here is his response:

    "Dear Phil:

    The internet is great source of information and some of it is correct.

    Clay is like your razor blade, it grinds off the high spots of your paint. If you like glass smooth paint then use the clay to grind off whatever sticks up. There are only two ways to smooth a surface, 1. remove high points, 2. fill in low points. Clay does not have a tiny bucket of your paint to fill in the low spots. It hydroplanes across the lubricant and grinds off the high spots.

    I am not a fan of using any paint cleaner (glaze, polish, etc) for the first 90 days from date of manufacture. If the car is a garage queen, I like to let it off gas with nothing on it for 90 days. If the car is a daily driver and/or sits outside as a bird toilet, I put a coat of carnauba wax on the car. Carnauba wax is semi-permeable and will allow the paint to continue off gassing. I vehemently disagree with a polymer sealant for the first 120 days. This like putting a plastic bag on your head. It stops all off gassing."

    Thank you again,

    Larry Reynolds
    Car Care Specialties, Inc.


    Phil

    Re: First detailing

    Larry is a very nice guy and he's been in the business for a long time, but some of his teachings seem a bit outdated to me. Especially after talking with a lot of other experts.

    For example, 120 days before using a polymer sealant due to outgassing? That is more applicable to aftermarket paint jobs and resprays. Modern car companies cure the paint fully using ovens to bake the paint. By the time your car arrives in your garage, it will be at least 60 days anyway. The paint is fully cured by this time and no outgassing is occuring as far as I know. If the paint isn't cured yet, then why does Menzerna make OEM polishes tha are used on the production line to prep cars? This discussion is limited to higher volume cars such as Mercedes, Porsche, etc.

    There are various grades of clay and I don't find using a very mild version very harmful because paint never really arrives in perfect condition when your dealer receives it. It may need some level of conditioning and/or decontamination. My Merc had rail dust embedded into the paint. My Lotus felt a bit bumpy in some areas and mild polishing/chemical cleaning did not cure this, but mild claying did. Larry is more concerned about overspray clay, that is used to remove paint overspray and is quite a bit more aggressive. That said, even mild detailing clay should be used with care, or risk scratching the surface. I always following claying with a very mild polish, like a finishing polish that the factory uses before sending cars on the boat.

    If you don't feel comfortable with it, then just don't use it!

    Larry also doesn't believe in using an orbital polisher (or was it rotary)? He claims it leaves heavy marks on the paint. Sure, like anything, if used incorrectly it can cause major harm. He prefers to hide swirls rather than remove them with a glaze like 3M IHG. I suppose he believes in preserving paint thickness, but at some point, there is only one way to remove a defect instead of hiding it. BTW, his definitions of polish and glaze are generally reversed compared to most other companies.

    He bashed microfiber for years and now it appears that he sells them. The only issue IMO is finding a quality product, but he seemed to say that they were all bad.

    I'm not an expert my any means, but from reading what other experts had to say, I see a lot of inaccuracies put out there by Larry. Try searching autopia.org for "Larry Reynolds" and you'll get pages of threads of people asking about things he's recommended. Generally he has very good reasons but what he believes, but many of his methods I don't agree with and I'm not alone. Doesn't mean one side or the other is correct, but I tend to look at the evidence and not traditional practices.

    - J

     
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