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    trailering a 997

    I am going to a DE event and want to trailer my 997 on a open trailer. What kind of and where do you attach the straps? The rear seems straight forward, but the front has alot of plastic to damage. Do you attach the strap on the wheel itself? What is the experience of the group?

    Re: trailering a 997

    Ask others , but the rear wheels seem to be the way to go..

    throt...

    Re: trailering a 997

    The best way is to the suspension pieces beneath the car. Some also attach to the wheels,--slip the nylon straps through the wheels.

    Dan

    Always did it through the wheels. Careful though, you do

    not want to scratch the wheels with the hook.

    Re: Always did it through the wheels. Careful though, you do

    Quote:
    mcoupe said:
    not want to scratch the wheels with the hook.



    You dont touch the wheels with the hook , you thread it through and back out of the wheel , to then meet the other hook , where one would then secure.. ..

    throt...

    Re: Always did it through the wheels. Careful though, you do

    I would use the wheels, as the front control arms are not very sturdy-looking, not designed to take a tug in an odd direction like that. As Throt said, you shouldn't have a hook or ring or clasp anywhere near the rim itself... just nylon strap. If the gear you currently have is not conducive to this type of tie-down... that means you go out and buy the right stuff, it doesn't mean you find some other sketchy method to utilize the stuff you've got. I keep a pretty wide selection of fittings and frame-hooks and straps and nets in my trailer, and on my shop shelf, so that I'm never caught with my pants down with any car. When my dad picked up his Ford GT, we had to buy new straps for the rear wheels, because they were so damn wide!!! Also, it doesn't hurt to slip a soft terry-towel between the straps and the wheels to eliminate chafe damage.

    Tie down all four corners... I can't overstate how many people I've seen trailering their car to save it from road damage and/or grime.... and they wind up damaging the buhjeesus out of their car due to using a seedy trailer, seedy tie-downs, careless attachment, cheesy and inadequate tow vehicle, etc.etc... Trailering is serious business, get the right stuff, or otherwise just drive it...

    Re: Always did it through the wheels. Careful though, you do

    Quote:
    69bossnine said:
    I would use the wheels, as the front control arms are not very sturdy-looking, not designed to take a tug in an odd direction like that. As Throt said, you shouldn't have a hook or ring or clasp anywhere near the rim itself... just
    nylon strap. If the gear you currently have is not
    conducive to this type of tie-down... that means you go out and buy the right stuff, it doesn't mean you find some other sketchy method to utilize the stuff you've got. I keep a pretty wide selection of fittings and frame-hooks and straps and nets in my trailer, and on my shop shelf, so that I'm never caught with my pants down with any car. When my dad picked up his Ford GT, we had to buy new straps for the rear wheels, because they were so damn wide!!! Also, it doesn't hurt to slip a soft terry-towel between the straps and the wheels to eliminate chafe damage.

    Tie down all four corners... I can't overstate how many people I've seen trailering their car to save it from road damage and/or grime.... and they wind up damaging the buhjeesus out of their car due to using a seedy trailer, seedy tie-downs, careless attachment, cheesy and inadequate tow vehicle, etc.etc... Trailering is serious business, get the right stuff, or otherwise just drive it...



    Should the car be left in neutral with the wheels chocked and parking brake on or should it be left in gear. Also, do you recommend the car be loaded with the rear facing to the front of the trailer? Thanks.

    Re: Always did it through the wheels. Careful though, you do

    Quote:
    jhbrennan said:
    Quote:
    69bossnine said:Should the car be left in neutral with the wheels chocked and parking brake on or should it be left in gear. Also, do you recommend the car be loaded with the rear facing to the front of the trailer? Thanks.



    I would go with the car in neutral, parking brake on. Load it in such away that is right for the trailer. Keep in mind your tongue weight limits,--may dictate the car going on front forward. The rear weight of the 911 as we know is in the rear,--may preclude hauling it backward.

    Dan

    Re: Always did it through the wheels. Careful though, you do

    Since we're talking about wheel tethering, you won't be compressing/loading the springs and truly eliminating all body motion. As such, I'd leave the tranny in neutral, to eliminate any potential tugging on your shift cables. It's my theory (totally pulled from my a$$) that the cars sometimes have cable adjustment issues brand-new due to Porsche ocean freighting and trucking the cars while in gear, and wheel-tethered. So take that for what it's worth (maybe not much ). But when you're tying to "sprung" points on the car, once you cinch it down, it's so isolated that you may as well leave it in gear, as the tie-downs have it isolated almost 100% in those cases. The e-brake on your 911 should be adequate "insurance". So yes, set the e-brake. You know, I never think about it because I've never trailered a 911. The fact that it is rear-engined, is a significant consideration. All my collectables are mostly front-engined front-biased Detroit iron. Rule of thumb is that you ALWAYS trailer facing front, with the engine over-to-ahead of the axles, with enough tongue-weight to keep the rear axle of the tow vehicle planted and secure. When you don't have adequate tongue-weight, and you've got a big chunk of weight hanging BEHIND the rear axles of the trailer, you wind up with a "tail wagging the dog" situation, that can wreck you. With a 911, I'm GUESSING that you would want the car facing rearward, engine ahead of the trailer axles bearing down on the tongue. I can't give you anything scientific to go on, as I always set load balance on my trailers by sight and instinct, how far the tow-vehicle's rear suspension is compressed, and the orientation of the trailer to the tow-vehicle, from a levelness standpoint. Suffice it to say, when you've got the fore-aft of the car's position correct, rolling down the road at 70mph should be a relaxed process, with little-to-zero trailer trying to tug you around, no wagging, and adjusting for semi truck wakes should be easy and uneventful.

    There's gotta be a race-track-rat 911 owner on here somewhere that can authoritatively corroborate my guess that you'd want to back her onto the trailer...

    Re: Always did it through the wheels. Careful though, you do

    Quote:
    Dan L said:
    Quote:
    jhbrennan said:
    Quote:
    69bossnine said:Should the car be left in neutral with the wheels chocked and parking brake on or should it be left in gear. Also, do you recommend the car be loaded with the rear facing to the front of the trailer? Thanks.



    I would go with the car in neutral, parking brake on. Load it in such away that is right for the trailer. Keep in mind your tongue weight limits,--may dictate the car going on front forward. The rear weight of the 911 as we know is in the rear,--may preclude hauling it backward.

    Dan



    Here's the deal.... If your tow-vehicle is rated so low on tongue-weight capacity, or your hitch is not sturdy enough, or your trailer tongue, that you can't load the weight-bias ahead of the trailer axles.... then you do NOT have a safe or viable rig. Furthermore, if you were to load with the engine's weight AFT of the trailer's rear axles, with a weenie tow vehicle pulling the whole sha-bang, you'd be another statistic cartwheeled upside down in a ditch before you could say "Achhhh, NEIN!!!"

    Never tow a trailer with your weight bias behind the trailer axles, it's a recipe for disaster. At the very least, center the car's weight evenly over the trailer axles, engine forward, but balanced over the axles. THEN, dial in as much tongue-weight as is advisable for what you're towing with. The entire point of my post was that wherever the engine is, that's the end of the car that points forward. Engine behind the trailer axles creates tongue lift (catastrophic), and also aggrevates the trailer's wanting to wag and speed wobble.

    Re: Always did it through the wheels. Careful though, you do

    Towing 911 race cars on an open Trailex trailer I always put the front forward and tie it down with a strap through both the rear wheels and the fronts. With the front wheels especially you don't want the strap cris-crossing in front of the wheels as that exerts force inwards and can change the toe of the wheels. Make a "U" with the hook attached at one side, through the wheels and then attached to the rachet at the other side of the trailer so the force is forward of the wheels.

    You don't want to have a trailer that is so short that the car is hanging off the rear. In the case of my trailering, the engine is about a foot aft of the axle which would have the center weight about over or just in front of the axle.

    If you tie it down tight enough the car should not be moving around at all and I always left it in 1st gear. Neutral and a parking brake would be fine too I guess, that's just the way I always did it.

    Drive for about an hour and then get out and re-sinch the nylon straps as they will have gotten a little loose through stretch.

    Too much tongue weight and the axle will bounce and too little and you have the tail wagging the dog...

    Trailer with something robust (though that doesn't always mean a huge diesel truck, my dad towed his 911 race car for years with a Jag XJR and it towed better than my Range Rover...)

     
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