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    Break In Period Question

    I just purchased a new 2009 Carrera S Cab.  6 speed.  the owners manual says not to take the car over 4200 rpms for the first 2000 miles.  I have never heard of a 2000 mile break in period for any car.  I would love some opinions on this.  Thanks much.


    Re: Break In Period Question

    Been that way for years for Porsche. Of course , in many of the American V8 forums , they adhere to the " drive it like you stole it " routine after a couple hundred miles to supposedly get better piston ring seating/compression , because for them it's all about the dragstrip - but at what cost to future problems/ howling noises  with the gear box and esp the differential(s) ?

     

    Welcome to Rennteam- enjoy your new ride !


    Re: Break In Period Question

    just make sure the engine oil is at operating temp and have fun.

    you don't have to beat the crap out of it. just take it easy and enjoy the whole revband in a sensible way.

    also give it time to bed in brakes and tires.

    if something will brake, it will anyway....break-in or not.

    that's what i have done with all my cars and never had a problem....


    --
    Speed has never killed anyone, suddenly becoming stationary... That's what gets you.

    Re: Break In Period Question

    It's all to do with psychology - are we really better off with all these innoculations nowadays?  We'll never know.  In the same way, if we have any fault with the engine, we can't be sure if it was or not due to the 'correct' running in procedure. 

    I downloaded and saw the Super Factories programme on Porsche, and from the way the engines are made (each one individually by hand) I would recommend you to run in the car well.  This is only my opinion and friendly advice, of course.  I for one would run in any new engine, irrespective of how it was manufactured (call me old-fashioned!). 

    But you do realise you've stirred up the proverbial hornet's nest once again with the debate on running in!!

     


    --



    Re: Break In Period Question

    I have never 'run-in' any of my previous cars except an M3 where BMW insists and monitors the first 2000kms.  With my current S, I tried to keep the revs below 5k for the first 1000kms, but gave up after less than 300kms.  So my advice would be to ensure that the oil is up to operating temperature and then to drive it like you stole it.  You have a warranty, dont make Porsche's problem, yoursSmiley

    if you are concerned, i suggest you do as above and then change oil after a 1000kms, thats bound to be more beneficial than driving slowly but having the same oil for 15000kms.

    Cheers


    Re: Break In Period Question

    You will get answers at both ends of the spectrum. People will tell you that their proprietary break is the way to go.

    Consider this. The economy has been in turmoil. Several manufaturers have adopted more strict warranty guidelines. Why risk the chance of having your warranty deined because the DME recorded your break in outside of Porsche's recommended parameters. I am not saying that it will happen, but no one can say it will not.

    I have adhered to a strick break in on all of my cars, too include: 2 E46 M3s and 3 997 Carreras (too include a 997 turbo). All my cars have run very, very strong and none had had any mecahnical issues whatsoever.

    I would wait until the oil temp is at at least 165 degrees F, before any spirited driving at all. Drives should be long too avoid frequent start ups, cold or not. A memnber on Rennlist recently drove his new 997 GT3 2000 miles in something like 4-5 days. I am not saying you have to do this, but in a perfect world. Vary throttle input, load and unload the engine. Accelerate up a long hill at half and later 2/3rds throttle to 4200, then decelerate so that the pistons suck more oil into the cylinders. Most of the acceleration should be in 3rd, 4th and sometimes fifth. But do not lug the engine.

    Stationary, warm ups should be brief but slow once driving. Drive slowly to your destination too help cool the engine before shutting it down.

    Just suggestions. I will adhere to the manual until someone shows me irrefutable proof that an alternative break in is the way to go. I have seen a lot of speculation but nothing concrete.

    My 997.2 GT3 will be here in about 2 weeks. I will break it in this way. No "drive it like you stolle it" for me.

    Also, Sharwerks recommends that their 3.9L cutom built GT3 engine is broken in very strickly. Granted the engine may be built differently, but I would consider that.


    Re: Break In Period Question

    I agree with devo, especially with the accelerating up the hill comments. IMHO this should be done at 2/3 throttle to around 6000 rpm and then foot off throttle and allow engine compression to slow the car. Do not do any "hard shifts" or shifts above 4-5000 rpm as the clutch and gearbox have break in periods as well.


    Re: Break In Period Question

    Since I can not seem to find an edit icon, I am forced to post again. Anyway, dump that oil after 2000 miles. It may not be necessary, but it sure can not hurt and may even rid some of the particles. I think they are minimum in contemporary new engines, but it still can not hurt.

    Post break in should be gradual increases to redline. I wouldn't do a line lock and drag race anyone at 2001 miles.


    Re: Break In Period Question

    Used to be the case that an engine was made by one person who moved with the engine along a line which presented the correct parts and tools to perform that stage of the build. Not any more with the DI engines which are made in the same (new) facility as the Cayenne engines have been made for some time. Much more use of robotics, more testing early on in the build instead of the will-it won't-it testing of the completed engine of old, the idea being that the earlier you find a problem, the easier it is to fix. Each technician is now responsible for only part of the build.

    Every engine is hot tested, of course, and some, statistically are picked for longer testing. However, all the engines are tested quite hard, I've seen red hot exhaust manifolds. That initial testing does much of the bedding in of components.

    It makes sense with any engine not to stress it until the fluids are at operating temperature, only more so with a new engine. Once they are, I think you can play with a clear conscience, just avoid the highest stresses.

    As for changing the oil after 2000 miles, do it if you want to sleep easy at night, change the filter too but it's pointless if you don't use top quality lubricants. This is not a 20 minute job at Jiffy Lube. Me, my 997.2 turbo arrives in a couple of weeks and I will not bother.


    Re: Break In Period Question

    MarkN:

    Used to be the case that an engine was made by one person who moved with the engine along a line which presented the correct parts and tools to perform that stage of the build. Not any more with the DI engines which are made in the same (new) facility as the Cayenne engines have been made for some time. Much more use of robotics, more testing early on in the build instead of the will-it won't-it testing of the completed engine of old, the idea being that the earlier you find a problem, the easier it is to fix. Each technician is now responsible for only part of the build.

    Every engine is hot tested, of course, and some, statistically are picked for longer testing. However, all the engines are tested quite hard, I've seen red hot exhaust manifolds. That initial testing does much of the bedding in of components.

    It makes sense with any engine not to stress it until the fluids are at operating temperature, only more so with a new engine. Once they are, I think you can play with a clear conscience, just avoid the highest stresses.

    As for changing the oil after 2000 miles, do it if you want to sleep easy at night, change the filter too but it's pointless if you don't use top quality lubricants. This is not a 20 minute job at Jiffy Lube. Me, my 997.2 turbo arrives in a couple of weeks and I will not bother.


    If one were to change the oil, an oil filter would have to accompany the change of course. The use of high quality lubricants is a given. It is yours and my speculation as to whether or not an early oil change is truely beneficial. However, when spending $100k +/- what's another $120 or so? What we do know is that changing the oil @ 2k will not hurt the engine, but not changing it may not be as beneficial. My own answer is obvious.

    I do not think that ALL new engines are hot tested. GT3's are, but all, I don't think so. Even if hot tested, that does not mean disregard the break in. The hot test is conducted under strict conditions and control.


    Re: Break In Period Question

    Porsche go to great lengths to monitor all aspects of the engine production, including a recent switch from air to electric tools which allows them to capture and record the tightening torque of every significant fastening in the engine to correlate later with any quality issues. They certainly do test every engine, too expensive to rectify if the first time you find there's a problem with it is when it's installed in a "completed" car. If I don't, I don't know what all those engines lined up waiting for the engine test bays were doing the last time I visited Zuffenhausen.

    As I said, if changing the oil will help you sleep easy as night, do it. My recipe for breaking-in nirvana is to let the engine warm up and go easy for the first 1000 miles. And change the oil according to Porsche's maintenance schedules.

     


     
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