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mcoupe said:
not want to scratch the wheels with the hook.
..Aug 29, 2006 12:36:47 PM
Aug 29, 2006 1:20:38 PM
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69bossnine said:
I would use the wheels, as the front control arms are not very sturdy-looking, not designed to take a tug in an odd direction like that. As Throt said, you shouldn't have a hook or ring or clasp anywhere near the rim itself... just
nylon strap. If the gear you currently have is not
conducive to this type of tie-down... that means you go out and buy the right stuff, it doesn't mean you find some other sketchy method to utilize the stuff you've got. I keep a pretty wide selection of fittings and frame-hooks and straps and nets in my trailer, and on my shop shelf, so that I'm never caught with my pants down with any car. When my dad picked up his Ford GT, we had to buy new straps for the rear wheels, because they were so damn wide!!! Also, it doesn't hurt to slip a soft terry-towel between the straps and the wheels to eliminate chafe damage.
Tie down all four corners... I can't overstate how many people I've seen trailering their car to save it from road damage and/or grime.... and they wind up damaging the buhjeesus out of their car due to using a seedy trailer, seedy tie-downs, careless attachment, cheesy and inadequate tow vehicle, etc.etc... Trailering is serious business, get the right stuff, or otherwise just drive it...
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jhbrennan said:Quote:
69bossnine said:Should the car be left in neutral with the wheels chocked and parking brake on or should it be left in gear. Also, do you recommend the car be loaded with the rear facing to the front of the trailer? Thanks.
I would go with the car in neutral, parking brake on. Load it in such away that is right for the trailer. Keep in mind your tongue weight limits,--may dictate the car going on front forward. The rear weight of the 911 as we know is in the rear,--may preclude hauling it backward.
Dan
Aug 29, 2006 3:43:49 PM
). But when you're tying to "sprung" points on the car, once you cinch it down, it's so isolated that you may as well leave it in gear, as the tie-downs have it isolated almost 100% in those cases. The e-brake on your 911 should be adequate "insurance". So yes, set the e-brake. You know, I never think about it because I've never trailered a 911. The fact that it is rear-engined, is a significant consideration. All my collectables are mostly front-engined front-biased Detroit iron. Rule of thumb is that you ALWAYS trailer facing front, with the engine over-to-ahead of the axles, with enough tongue-weight to keep the rear axle of the tow vehicle planted and secure. When you don't have adequate tongue-weight, and you've got a big chunk of weight hanging BEHIND the rear axles of the trailer, you wind up with a "tail wagging the dog" situation, that can wreck you. With a 911, I'm GUESSING that you would want the car facing rearward, engine ahead of the trailer axles bearing down on the tongue. I can't give you anything scientific to go on, as I always set load balance on my trailers by sight and instinct, how far the tow-vehicle's rear suspension is compressed, and the orientation of the trailer to the tow-vehicle, from a levelness standpoint. Suffice it to say, when you've got the fore-aft of the car's position correct, rolling down the road at 70mph should be a relaxed process, with little-to-zero trailer trying to tug you around, no wagging, and adjusting for semi truck wakes should be easy and uneventful.Aug 29, 2006 3:54:56 PM
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Dan L said:Quote:
jhbrennan said:Quote:
69bossnine said:Should the car be left in neutral with the wheels chocked and parking brake on or should it be left in gear. Also, do you recommend the car be loaded with the rear facing to the front of the trailer? Thanks.
I would go with the car in neutral, parking brake on. Load it in such away that is right for the trailer. Keep in mind your tongue weight limits,--may dictate the car going on front forward. The rear weight of the 911 as we know is in the rear,--may preclude hauling it backward.
Dan
Here's the deal.... If your tow-vehicle is rated so low on tongue-weight capacity, or your hitch is not sturdy enough, or your trailer tongue, that you can't load the weight-bias ahead of the trailer axles.... then you do NOT have a safe or viable rig. Furthermore, if you were to load with the engine's weight AFT of the trailer's rear axles, with a weenie tow vehicle pulling the whole sha-bang, you'd be another statistic cartwheeled upside down in a ditch before you could say "Achhhh, NEIN!!!"
Never tow a trailer with your weight bias behind the trailer axles, it's a recipe for disaster. At the very least, center the car's weight evenly over the trailer axles, engine forward, but balanced over the axles. THEN, dial in as much tongue-weight as is advisable for what you're towing with. The entire point of my post was that wherever the engine is, that's the end of the car that points forward. Engine behind the trailer axles creates tongue lift (catastrophic), and also aggrevates the trailer's wanting to wag and speed wobble.
Aug 29, 2006 6:28:29 PM
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