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    Need Help With V1 Hardwire......

    Ok I just ordered a V1 with I plan on placing the V1 unit on passenger Visor and run the wire down to either the cig lighter or eventually the fuse question is this - how do I run the wire clean all the way down from the visor to the floor...tuck in the wire along the roof and side of door? There has to be someone out there who has done a clean hardwire from roof to floor....thanks guys!

    I'd just tap into the cabin light. That's what I did.

    Just remove the light panel up top (it's in the user's manual relating to manually operating the sunroof) and tap into one of the map lights (the mulicolored line is the power) and ground it to a bolt in the center using the VI hardwire kit. You'll find that the light is switched so the power goes off when the lights dim when you lock the car. The harder part was fitting the VI converter into the space up top. To do that, I slightly backed off the screws holding the headliner in underneath the plastic housing, fit it above the headliner, and screwed the screws down again.

    Re: I'd just tap into the cabin light. That's what I did.

    Presumably the radar remains on (albeit a few seconds) until the lights dim.....Any reason why you didn't tap into the Power sunroof switch (presumably that is a hot wire aswell....without the dimming delay)

    Re: I'd just tap into the cabin light. That's what I did.

    Seems Mike Valentine should get a couple of his customer supporters to join this board

    I tried the sunroof first...

    For whatever reason, the sunroof didn't work and I didn't want to fool around with it. Just easier to tap into the light as I have done in other vehicles. It was just as easy.

    Re: I tried the sunroof first...

    Thanks Zeke!!!

    Re: I'd just tap into the cabin light. That's what I did.

    Dr. Phil said:
    Seems Mike Valentine should get a couple of his customer supporters to join this board

    While that seems an excellent idea, one that I too would appreciate, it gets too close to the product promotion concept and Rennteam has really done a good job so far of avoiding that, even for products like the V-1 that I think everyone here would agree is the best available.

    And, to Mike's credit, I have never seen him promote his product here. He has answered a few questions, but that's it.

    We probably have enough technically inclined users available to answer these questions, and I think we've seen that in this thread

    Re: I'd just tap into the cabin light. That's what I did.

    I did my V1 installation earlier today a bit differently. The DIY is as follows.

    Mount the V1 on the R side of the rear view mirror running power from the fuse panel. Then tuck the power cord into the headliner over to the drivers A pillar. Tuck between the A pillar and windshield and then very carefully tuck between the A pillar and dashboard to the door hinge area. The cord fits very nicely under the weatherstripping on down to the carpet by the fuse panel. Remove the fuse panel cover, then the 3 screws holding the carpet in place, then the surrounding carpet. Using a blade fuse tap - tap a switched fuse [I tapped the tiptronic control fuse which is unused in my car (6-speed)]. Take a foot of 18 guage wire and crimp a 90 degree - 0.250" female connector to one end and splice the other end to the power line of the hardwire module [you may be able to eliminate this step - I don't think the extra length is required]. Connect the connector to the fuse tap. Find a suitable place to run the ground wire to [I ran it to the screw behind the throttle because it was easy, convenient, and didn't require splicing to lengthen the ground wire]. Plug in the phone cord from the V1 unit to the appropriate jack. Sit in the drivers seat and mount the concealed display so that it is normally visible between the steering wheel and the cruise control stalk. Connect the phone/power cord and fish the wire under the steering column. Plug into the V1 hardwire module. Test the connections by putting the key in. Once the key hits the stop in the ignition - the unit and concealed display should power up [with the PCM and everything else]. Pull the key out and everything should power down. Wire tie the power cord from the concealed display up and out of the way under the dash [I tied it to the footwell lighting wiring harness]. Tuck all the wires and control module under the carpeting, replace the fuse panel carpet surround and the fuse panel cover.

    I tucked the control module under the carpet in the space just to the right of the dead pedal. Then tucked the rest of the wiring behind the carpet or the fuse panel carpet. The only places any wires should be visible is immediately next to the V1 unit and behind the throttle to the joint in the carpet. Attached is a picture showing the drivers footwell as installed [I left the fuse panel cover off to show the fuse tap and connector and the V1 hardwire module is behind the carpet where noted].

    If you're using the concealed display, that may be safer.

    I don't use the concealed display, though I have it. I just mount the V1 on the driver's side of the rear view mirror.

    Re: If you're using the concealed display, that may be safer.

    Oops - I mounted on the L as well but typed R in my writeup.

    Actually, I wasn't going to install the concealed display either but it took about 2 extra minutes - so I figured why not.

    Re: If you're using the concealed display, that may be safer.

    I did mine exactly like VS1 with a male spade connector plugged into the empty tiptronic fuse. It works perfectly and the wiring is invisible. Best of all, no wires were spliced and it is completely reversible if needed.



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